Showing posts with label Borneo Rainforest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Borneo Rainforest. Show all posts

Sunday, January 21, 2018

Everything But The Kitchen Sink: My Malaysia Trip - Borneo


The next part of my Malaysia trip was my favourite, spending time in the Borneo rainforest.

We had jam packed 3 days planned through Sabah in Borneo.

It started with a flight from Kuala Lumpur the previous day to Kota Kinabalu, then about a 4 hour layover in a hotel before an early morning start to fly to Sandakan to start our tour of Borneo.

Despite being on very little sleep, we were so excited to visit the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center.

Our guide Erdy picked us up and took us around the center, which also had the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Center.

It was amazing to see all of the animals so close up!

The orangutans are semi-wild here, so they are allowed to leave the enclosures whenever they choose and the keepers feed them with fairly tasty food so they're encouraged to leave and depend on their own for better food.

They also have a nursery for the young and are kept closely monitored by the center.

Everything is very well thought out at the center, there are museums and educational videos you can watch and plenty of tour guides around who you can ask questions.

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Thursday, December 07, 2017

Sabah forests can halt climate change


KOTA KINABALU: Sabah could double its carbon stock and play an important role in controlling climate change if previously logged forests are allowed to regenerate.

A study carried out by several agencies, including the Carnegie Airborne Observatory (CAO) in collaboration with the Sabah Forestry Department and other institutions, showed that about 40% of Sabah’s carbon stock exists in forests that are not designated for maximum protection.

Carbon stock refers to the amount of carbon stored in a forest, including biomass and soil. Carbon is a key component of all life, animal and plant alike.

Sabah Forestry Department director Datuk Sam Mannan, who is also the chief conservator of forests, said this finding followed new remote sensing and satellite mapping data by CAO’s Greg Asner and his colleagues that was recently published in the journal Biological Conservation.

Asner said in a statement that his team found about 40% of Sabah’s carbon stock is contained in forests “that are not protected at the highest designation”.

“We also discovered that Sabah could double its carbon stock by allowing previously logged forests to regenerate, a process that could take about a century,” he added.

In addition to finding 50 of the tallest tropical trees ever measured, the CAO team also pinpointed important targets for conservation efforts.

Asner said a high carbon stock is important because tropical forests like those in Sabah convert large quantities of atmospheric carbon (in the form of carbon dioxide) into organic material.

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Sabah forests can halt climate change
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Monday, November 06, 2017

Prince Charles reaches to touch hands with orangutan in Borneo rainforest


The Prince of Wales has come face to face with a true king of the jungle, as he reached to touch hands with a five-foot orangutan.

The Prince had travelled deep into the Borneo rainforest to see endangered orangutans in the wild.

The Prince looked on in awe as six of the great apes visited a feeding spot at the Semenggoh Wildlife Rehab centre, offering them a banana.

Wearing a cream suit and tie, he walked over to where two of the orangutans that had descended from a tree and held the fruit out.

The orangutan then reached out to the Prince, appearing to touch hands for a split second.

He then offered a banana to a second animal, who took it quickly.

The first orangutan, who was casually doing the splits between two trees, went back for second helpings from the delighted heir to the throne.

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Tuesday, June 27, 2017

Trusan Sugut Forest Forest reserve houses iconic wildlife


KOTA KINABALU: Environmen-talists are coming together to restore a mini forest reserve teeming with wildlife in Sabah’s interior.

The Trusan Sugut Forest Reserve (Trusan Sugut FR) in the state’s north-eastern part, which is home to 365 butterfly species, 57 types of amphibians, 103 reptile species, 335 bird varieties and 168 kinds of mammals, was recently elevated from a Class II to Class I (totally protected area) forest reserve.

However, The World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) Malaysia says there is still much to be done in terms of restoring the forest.

Its executive director and chief executive officer Datuk Dr Dionysius Sharma said the 8,690ha forest reserve was severely degraded in many parts due to human activity.

He said natural regeneration took a long time and usually, the altered conditions did not suit the orang utan and other wildlife.

“We intend to lend nature a helping hand, and urge the public to support our fundraising efforts for Sabah’s wildlife haven,” he said in a statement.

The Trusan Sugut FR houses ico­nic wildlife such as the proboscis monkey, banteng, Bornean orang­utan and Sundaland clouded leo­pard, among others.

In terms of habitat, the forest reserve also boasts of various forest types including endangered ones such as lowland mixed dipterocarp forest, a variant of which is the kapur (limestone) forest, lowland kerangas (heath) forest, lowland peat swamp forest, and lowland freshwater swamp forest.

WWF-Malaysia senior programme officer for orangutan conservation Donna Simon said some parts of Trusan Sugut FR occupied by Bornean orangutan had become severely degraded due to past logging activities and fires.

“We are keen to help the Sabah Forestry Department restore the landscape with native and fast-growing tree species,” she said.

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Saturday, April 22, 2017

East of E15: Deforestation in Borneo


When people imagine Borneo they conjure up images of endless steaming jungle filled with bugs, monkeys, orangutans and elephants.

However, this image of Borneo presented in most travel guides and blogs is disingenuous.

While there are still sizable areas of jungle in the upland mountainous regions the super rich and diverse lowland diptocarp jungles and now largely gone expect for a few protected pockets which are not big enough to support healthy populations of Borneo’s famous jungle species such as orangutans, hornbills, the Bornean pygmy elephant and the Sumartran rhino

So what happened? And who is responsible for what Gordon Brown called the greatest environmental crime of the 20th century?

In a series of blogs I will answer these questions and lay out what possible solutions there are to saving Borneo’s remaining jungle.

The answer to the first question is massive deforstation on a scale never seen before and monoculture crop plantations such as rubber but mostly palm oil.

As a result there are areas in Borneo’s lowlands where for hundereds of kilometers there is literally only one plant species, the African oil palm.

Now some may claim that this has been a good thing for the people of Borneo making previously unprodictive land productive, providing employment, a route out of poverty and tax recipts to the government.

All of these claims will be examined in the third blog in this series, while in this first blog I will look at the environmental costs deforestation has had on the flora and fauna of Borneo.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: East of E15: Deforestation in Borneo
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Friday, April 21, 2017

Sabah to expand protected rainforest coverage to 30% by 2025


KOTA KINABALU: A document has been inked for a landmark project which will increase the size of Sabah’s protected forest coverage to 30 per cent of the state’s total land area by 2025, from the current 26 per cent.

The ceremony, which took place yesterday at Cambridge, in the UK, saw the Sabah Forestry Department (SFD) signing a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with the Southeast Asia Rainforest Research Partnership (SEARRP) for the initiative.

The Department’s Chief Conservator of Forests, Datuk Sam Mannan, said the project will involve the protection of an additional one million acres (404,685 hectares) of rainforest in Sabah using world-class science.

The exact locations of the new areas have yet to be identified.

“Over the past 20 years, we have worked to increase the extent of protected forests in Sabah by a factor of five to almost 1.9 million hectares today – equivalent to 26 per cent of the state’s land area, surpassing even the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN)’s and Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD)’s Aichi targets.

“The Sabah government is committed to increasing the extent of protected forests from the current 26 per cent to 30 per cent of land area by 2025. This is the work that lies ahead of us,” he said in a statement released here.

The strategic partnership also includes the Carnegie Institution for Science, the PACOS Trust and the BC Initiative, he added.

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Friday, April 07, 2017

Sabah leads in certified forests


Kota Kinabalu: Governor Tun Juhar Mahiruddin praised the State Government for managing its forest resources with a touch of excellence and achieving goals above internationally accepted standards.

He said under the leadership of Chief Minister Datuk Seri Musa Aman, State Forestry Policy has become known all over the world with all the unique transformation programmes to demonstrate the State's long term commitment in managing its forests sustainably.

"I wish to once again praise the State Government under the leadership of the Chief Minister for managing the State's forest resources very well. Our Forestry Policy is now famous all over the world," he said when delivering his policy speech during the opening of the State Assembly, Thursday.

He noted, among others, the State Government's initiative in establishing Totally Protected Areas (TPAs) which have now reached nearly 30 per cent or almost 1.9 hectares out of the total land area of the State. In comparison, he said Sabah's TPAs were only 11 per cent or 850,000 hectares in 2004.

"This accomplishment has exceeded the target set by the International Union for Nature Conservation (IUCN) which is 10 per cent and also the UN Aichi which is 17 per cent," said Juhar.

He also noted that under the forest certification programme, Sabah currently has nearly 549,501 hectares of natural and planted forests which are situated in 10 different areas in the State, whereas in 2003 it only had one rainforest – Deramakot Forest Reserves (55,507 hectares) - that was certified with the Gold Standard of the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC).

He was proud to mention that with such size, Sabah has the largest FSC certified forests areas in the country.

"The government will continue to double its efforts to sustain its performance in managing forest resources with excellence and credibility," he added.

On wildlife, Juhar said the Government will also continue efforts to empower the enforcement of the Wildlife Conservation Enactment 1997 by using a two-pronged approach which involves law enforcement and implementation of education and public awareness raising programmes.

Continue reading at: Sabah leads in certified forests
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Friday, March 24, 2017

A giant reason to conserve Sabah's forests


A towering giant has recently been discovered in the heart of Borneo, the most imposing of its kind in a land of giants. The world's tallest tropical tree stands at over 94m - taller than New York City's Statue of Liberty or the former Asia Insurance Building at Raffles Place.

Researchers found it in a protected Sabah forest and are hoping that the discovery will highlight the need to conserve the forests of Borneo, home to thriving wildlife and plants.

Said ecologist Gregory Asner, who found the tree with his colleagues: "Sabah (and Borneo in general) harbours some of the most spectacular tropical trees on earth. I have worked throughout the Amazon, Central America, on tropical islands including Madagascar, in tropical Africa and beyond, and yet Sabah's forests stand out as truly inspiring."

The Shorea faguetiana tree first caught the eye of researchers last year when Dr Asner and his colleagues were surveying Sabah's forests in a helicopter.

That was when they struck gold and found the tree that turned out to be 94.1m tall, with an immense canopy measuring 40.3m in diameter, in an undisturbed forest patch in Danum Valley.

Even better, they also found 49 other specimens taller than 90m spread all over Sabah, all of which would have crushed the previous record for tallest tropical tree.

Describing the moment he saw the tallest among them, Dr Asner, director of the Carnegie Airborne Observatory at the Carnegie Institution for Science in the United States, told environmental news site Mongabay it was flanked on each side by a tree of the same species of Shorea, each almost as tall.

"There are three trees, like brothers, standing above the rest of the canopy. I almost cried as we circled the tree maybe 10 times before the pilot said we had to go back," he said.

The previous record belonged to an 89.5m giant discovered in Sabah's Maliau Basin last year. It was reportedly spotted during a research project that used an airborne Lidar (Light Detection and Ranging) scanner to create 3D images of forest structure.

News of the latest record prompted Datuk Sam Mannan, the Chief Conservator of Forests at the Sabah Forestry Department, to organise an expedition to locate the tree and determine what species it was.

After trekking through a forest trail on Feb 22 this year, the team found the tree on a slope at about 359m above sea level. Mr Juanis Runcin of the Sabah Forestry Department then climbed the tree to obtain leaf samples so that the tree species could be identified.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: A giant reason to conserve Sabah's forests
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Saturday, March 11, 2017

World’s tallest tropical tree in Danum Valley


TAWAU: In November 2016, at the Heart of Borneo Conference held at The Magellan Sutera Harbour, Prof Gregory Asner, an ecologist at the Carnegie Institute of Science at Stanford University announced the discovery via air surveillance of the tallest tree in Danum Valley, Lahad Datu.

Asner, who is also the leader of the Carnegie Airborne Observatory (CAO), said the tree is in the genus Shorea, though the exact species has yet to be determined.

The tallest is a towering 94.1 metres tree with a canopy measuring 40.3 metres in diameter.

Asner and his colleagues also found 49 other trees taller than 90 metres spread all over Sabah (https://news.mongabay.com).

Impressed with the announcement and with the hope that it would highlight the need to protect Borneo’s rainforests, Datuk Sam Mannan, the Chief Conservator of Forests instructed an expedition to be organised in 2017 to locate and determine the tree species.

Recently, a team of researchers and supporting staff from the Forest Research Centre (FRC) of the Sabah Forestry Department, led by its Forest Botanist (John B. Sugau), together with two guides from Danum Valley Field Centre (DVFC) carried out an expedition from February 20 to 24.

Prior to the expedition, the coordinates of the tallest tree, obtained from Asner were plotted on the map of Danum Valley Conservation Area (DVCA).

The map showed that the tree is located about 600m south west of Ulu Purut Research Station (UPRS) Camp.

UPRS is located about seven kilometres east of DVFC and can be reached by about 4-5 hours trekking through an existing forest trail.

The team commenced the search from UPRS Camp at about 8am on February 22 of this year based on the coordinates that were logged into the Garmin Global Positioning System (GPS) receiver.

Fifty minutes later, the team found the tree about 150m from the existing Ulu Purut Research Station Camp-Mount Danum Raleigh Camp trail, growing in an old forest gap of Lowland Mixed Dipterocarp Forest on a slope at about 359m above sea level.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: World’s tallest tropical tree in Danum Valley
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Tuesday, February 21, 2017

TheBudgetSavvyTravelers: Real Life Jungle Book – What to expect at Borneo Rainforest Lodge


Traveling to wild, remote destinations can take you back to a different time or place. Whether it’s the feeling of playing outdoors as a child, or capturing the essence of a turn of the century explorer, adventure awakens your senses and shakes the soul.

In an overly digital world, at Borneo Rainforest Lodge visitors can find that rejuvenating connection with nature and more importantly, a reconnection to one another.


Why Borneo Rainforest Lodge?

Have you ever come across a photo, possibly in a magazine or on an advertisement, which completely grabbed your attention? My fascination with Borneo Rainforest Lodge started this way.

One day, I was on Pinterest, trying to satisfy my wanderlust by scrolling through inspirational travel photos.

I came across a photo of a canopy walk, hanging high above a misty rainforest.

At that moment, I was determined to someday escape to this far off place full of wildlife, adventure, and natural beauty.

When the day came when we finally arrived at the lodge, it was hard not to get emotional.

I felt I was in the midst of a great travel icon – no differently than standing at the base of the Eiffel Tower in Paris or Rome’s Colosseum.


Our Journey Deep into the Rainforest

Part of the allure of staying at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge was the opportunity to be pampered in the middle of a dense jungle.

Located in the isolated Danum Valley, getting there is no easy feat.

From Kota Kinabalu we took a propeller plane to Lahad Datu.

From Lahad Datu airport we traveled overland for almost three hours in a rugged 4×4 to reach the lodge.

Much of the ride to the lodge is bumpy, through a thick, impressive forest.

Although the windy roads tried to lure us to sleep, we forced ourselves to stay awake.

Thankfully, we were awarded with our first orangutan sighting!

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Sunday, February 12, 2017

TheBudgetSavvyTravelers: How To See Danum Valley Rainforest – Borneo Nature Tours


With the opportunity to visit one of the premier, luxury eco-lodges in the world, Harry and I wanted to do something special to document our time spent at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge at Danum Valley.

We worked together to write daily journals and create cinematic videos to offer an insight at the travel experience of a lifetime.

Visiting Borneo Rainforest Lodge was a dream trip for us.

We hope that our story will inspire others to embrace their inner adventurer and to live their own story of exploration in the Borneo Rainforest.


Explorer Journal Day One

After two hours of bumpy, gravel roads we arrived to “camp.” It was a long journey, but being in this beautiful, secluded part of the world, it was worth it.

With luck on our side, our guide spotted an orangutan off into the distance right away. Hopefully, a good omen for future wildlife crossings to come.

Tonight, we ventured deep into the Rainforest for a night drive. To us, this is our favorite way to view nocturnal animals.

We spotted a flying squirrel taking flight, gliding from one tree to another. We whispered to each other, “Damn. That was a National Geographic moment!”

The Rainforest is dark. We laughed imagining that if we were contestants on Naked & Afraid, we’d never make it.

Upon our arrival today, I have to admit, I got a bit emotional. The kind staff here joked that it was simply from a long day of travel.

But I knew that wasn’t the case. This was a bucket list journey that we are so blessed to be on.


Explorer Journal Day Two

Didn’t sleep much last night. Maybe it was the anticipation, or maybe it was the unfamiliar sounds of the forest.

At 6:30 am, we set out to fulfill a goal – to walk high above the trees on the Borneo Rainforest Lodge canopy.

Ever since I first saw that iconic photo, it’s been a dream to walk those swaying bridges.

Once there, we took the time the view deserved, just taking the time to enjoy the moment.

Still on our excitement high, we spotted a large male orangutan on our walk back to the lodge.

Late morning, we trekked into the forest. Harry discovered first hand that all the warnings about leeches weren’t just for kicks.

I picked four off his legs within minutes. Changing out of our sweaty trekker pants, he quizzically wondered how one got under his pants to bloody up his upper thigh.

It’s all just part of an explorer’s adventure. Tonight, we braved the forest at night where we spotted frogs, snakes, tarantulas, centipedes, and even a bearded pig!

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Friday, February 03, 2017

The Tuk-Tuk To Paradise: Borneo – Part 2


From Part 1

Entering the Bornean Rainforest, the Orang-utan Sanctuary and on to Bali:

Our trip to the rainforest didn’t start well – firstly because we were up at 6.30am; and secondly because the 24-hour restaurant we went to for breakfast was closed. We rattled the doors and peered in through the window, but it was the open-all-hours eatery was well and truly shut. Our only option was to have a McDonald’s, despite Jo’s claim that she “would rather go hungry than have a sausage and egg McMuffin.”

We walked through town to the bus station, which, as with so many things on this trip so far, wasn’t exactly where the map pointed us to. This meant a minor panic and a major search, before eventually finding the right place and having to wait twenty minutes before the bus actually left town.

On the bus we met Paul, an early 40’s lifelong traveller from Germany, who spoke perfect English and had that been-there-done-that vibe of a well-travelled man. He was cool, and we decided to team up to hire a guide for the rainforest, which we did as soon as we arrived at Bako National Park. His name was Alex, and although originally from China, he had lived in Borneo for 30 years and knew the park back to front.

What Alex also told us was that we needed a fourth person to make the required number for a boat down river, which lead us to Lo, a 68-year-old Chinese man who spoke about five words of English. But we was happy and smiley and with a little help from Alex he joined our bunch of merry men on the boat.

Half way to the national park drop off point the river became too low for the boat to move, so the captain had to get out and push our way through the mud, despite several warnings that crocodiles lurked in the murky waters.

“Do you want some help?” I asked as the ageing man heaved the boat through the mud.

“No. Too dangerous for you,” he said, waving me back.

“Why’s it not too dangerous for him?” I whispered to Jo, half-disappointed, half-relieved.

We were dropped off near a large sandy beach and had to wade through the last twenty metres of water to the beach. It wasn’t exactly D-Day in Normandy, but it was tough work, with the constant fear that a creature of the deep was going to come up and pull us into the water by our ankles.

However we were now in the park and Alex immediately lead us over to some trees to show us some Probiscus monkeys – the really weird-looking ones with oversized, bulbous noses.

“The bigger the better,” Alex informed us. “Nose-wise anyway.”

But while we were watching the Proboscis troop we ‘lost’ Paul.

What actually happened was Paul abandoned us, leading Jo and me to re-name him Paul the Skank. We continued on through the park without Paul the Skank and Alex showed us some more Proboscis monkeys, a troop of macaques, some wild boar and various different species of carnivorous plant as we headed up a long, steep, windy path through the forest until we reach the top of the island.

Here there were great views out over the river to the sea, and it was also a good opportunity to rest for a while, the demanding walk in the midday heat making us both hot and sweaty.

Then as we were walking down we bumped into Paul the Skank. Jo tried to ask why he abandoned us but he just shrugged it off in a typically casual European style, which was hard to hate, despite his abandonment.

The walk down was considerably easier, despite the constant threat of tripping over on tree roots, but the boat ride back was painfully slow as we had to wait on three separate occasions for the tide to go out enough to let us continue. This meant we had to run to catch our bus back to Kuching, which we just made.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: The Tuk-Tuk To Paradise: Borneo – Part 2
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Sunday, January 15, 2017

Vagabond Way: How to Hike Unique Pinnacles at Mulu in Beautiful Borneo Malaysia


In a remote section of the Borneo rain forest at Mulu National Park a unique formation of limestone rocks called The Pinnacles jut up from the earth. Piercing some 50 meters into the sky, rock formation has been about 5 million years in the making. You know, no big deal mother nature!

For those seeking adventure and work out there is a 2 night/ 3 day hike to reach the view point of The Pinnacles. For those wishing to actually do the hike, all the information is at the bottom. For those wishing to join vicariously via the world wide web, get ready, here we go!

This hike is not for the faint of heart. Although the main part of the hike is only about 2.4 kms uphill one way, it took our group a good eight hours plus to complete the hike there and back. Elevation gain is 1200 meters and with the steepness, heat and humidity there are some that just can’t make it to the top.

Although it’s hard to show just how step the incline is, many sections of trail had ropes for climbers to either pull themselves up or steady themselves on the way down.

Leaving the small village behind, you reach the start of the hike by jumping into long boats.

I loved the bright and vibrant colors. But oh my gosh, getting upstream to the start of the hike was one of the hardest things of the whole hike! We were in Mulu in July and the water level was rather low. Add in the extra pack weight and the boats were constantly hitting the bottom.

So everyone would have to jump out of the boat to help push it up stream. People were slipping and falling on the rocks and thus getting dunked in the water (although it felt good because it was so hot.) It really gave us a great appreciation for how hard of work it was to get those boats up and down stream. Our leg muscles were sore for days.

When the boats drop you off everyone walks on their own about 8 kms to the camp at your own pace. It’s a well marked path through the Borneo rainforest that is almost a straight shot. Everyone in our group was anxious to go but Chris and I had not yet eaten our packed lunches and were hungry.

So we stayed behind to eat our lunch as everyone else took off down the path. What ended up happening is we got to slowly walk through a pristine piece of remote jungle all on our own with no other sounds, distractions or worries. It was one of my most favorite and peaceful times of being in Borneo. Sometimes it pays to not follow the group and be content to be the last one into camp.

And what a camp it was! I will say hats off and great job Mulu National Park service for the excellent management of this facility. Everything about this hike was so well organized. There are multiple types of groups that use the camp from private tours to people (like us) who just booked with the national park directly.

Everyone had an assigned little sleeping quarters. There was a big and clean kitchen to use, tables for everyone underneath the cover and the bathrooms were very clean and functional with western toilets. The number of people allowed in camp every day was strictly limited and this made for a very pleasant experience for everyone.

Especially in these high demand areas like this, if it’s not well maintained they can great gross so fast. Mulu National Park was doing a superior job in keeping this nice for everyone and in turn visitors also treated the area with respect.


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Sunday, September 11, 2016

Every Footstep an Adventure: Guide to Borneo Orangutan Trekking in Tanjung Puting National Park


When I was a small child, you wouldn’t find me playing house, but instead running high and low with a raggedy brown duffel bag in tow — I was playing Explorer. I would stuff my trusty brown bag with a few pairs of underwear and some essential travel gadgets.

This meant, of course, my plastic red hammer, a skipping rope (to help me climb!), a tiny compass, and a few other items that would change as the situation did. And then I would wander around the house pretending I was journeying through a harsh mountain range or across vast ice fields or deep in the heart of a remote jungle.

You can imagine how excited I was then when, a few weeks ago, I visited Indonesia for the first time and I found myself exploring the far flung places of my childhood imagination. One of the first adventurous activities I partook in when I arrived was orangutan trekking deep in the Borneo jungles of Tanjung Puting National Park — and it was incredible.

We are walking single file along the jungle trails, deeper into the Borneo rainforest. As I pause and gaze around at my surroundings, the silence of the forest is broken by the snapping of a branch. I whirl around and gasp. Just a few meters behind us, high in the trees, I spot my first wild orangutan.

He gazes back at us with a thoughtful, inquisitive expression on his face. As we whisper among ourselves, I wonder what thoughts are going through this gentle giant’s mind. And then, just as suddenly as he had come, we watch as this auburn-haired creature grabs another branch and swings away through the treetops.

I had so many new experiences and amazing adventures in Tanjung Puting (and Indonesia as a whole!) and I’m finding it hard deciding what to start writing about. I mean, how do I even begin to convey my thoughts and express my feelings about a trip that has changed my life? I’ve learned so much more about the world and I’ve learned so much more about myself and what I’m capable of — I have no words.

But I’m a blogger and somehow I have to find the words, so here goes nothing!

While wild orangutans are the main draw of Tanjung Puting National Park, also a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, and, don’t get me wrong, that was an indescribably great experience, I experienced so much more than that in Tanjung Puting.

From meeting friendly locals to trying delicious Indonesian cuisine, from being surrounded by such beautiful and different jungle vegetation (as compared to my home country of Canada) to seeing wildlife such as proboscis monkeys, gibbons, bush pigs, and fireflies, from getting to know people from around the world to learning more about Indonesia — it was all so amazing.

After a one-hour flight from Jakarta, the capital of Indonesia, I found myself on Borneo in the city of Pangkalan Bun. From the airport, I took a bus to the Port of Kumai and, along with four other people from around the world, we set out on a two-day-one-night adventure in a klotok, a traditional Indonesian riverboat.

With our guide and boat crew, we cruised down the Sekonyer River and headed into Tanjung Puting National Park where our goal was to encounter wild orangutans in their natural habitat.

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Thursday, August 04, 2016

Beardy Backpacker: Kinabalu, Malaysia - Wet clothes and sore legs


The plane’s window gave me my first glimpse into the Borneo rainforest below. A blanket of canopy could be seen from above, with few villages and towns dotted throughout. 

The plane finally rested in Kota Kinabalu, the capital of Malaysian Borneo’s eastern state, Sabah. I would be spending a few days in the city before heading towards Malaysia’s highest peak, Mount Kinabalu.

Sadly, the cities in Borneo don’t quite have the personality or variation of those on the Malaysian Peninsular. Without much to do, I carefully treaded around the town in order to not cause any last minute injuries, and kept my exploration to a minimum.

It wasn’t long before I was packing myself in a cramped local minibus, and was driven towards Kinabalu national park and my mountain host, “Jungle Jack”.

The mountain camp was simple enough, with character added by Jack’s insatiable spirit and enthusiasm. Cheese on toast was available in plentiful supply (a luxury in Asia!), and the camp’s local puppy called “Wifi” provided company alongside the other travellers.

Despite dwarfing any other mountain nearby, it was impossible to see Mount Kinabalu through the mist and clouds that draped over the surrounding lands. Rain was a daily inevitability that you would expect and endure regardless of whether you were inside or out.

At 1500m altitude, the environment was temperate, whilst maintaining that Malaysian humidity that you would tirelessly follow you wherever you were.

However, I had finally arrived at the amazing rainforest which I had hoped to see for much of my life. Wild green growth stretched to the horizon, and the constant buzz of nature echoed in every direction. There was a sense of satisfaction of just reaching the jungle, and I’d have been happy to just wander and enjoy the scenery for my entire stay.

I was part of a group of 5 travellers hoping to traverse to the peak. This included two British women, a German called Ilka and a Norwegian called Odd. We excitedly chatted about what to expect in the coming days, which could be neatly summarised as wet clothes and sore legs.

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Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Letters from a Solivagant: Borneo


In Borneo I was on a two week volunteering project that concerned the conservation of Borneo’s rainforest and the wildlife that calls it home. Borneo’s rainforest is rich with biodiversity, some of the most extraordinary in the world, and unfortunately deforestation and tourism are putting it a lot of it at risk of becoming extinct.

Although only two weeks long, this trip has taught me more than I’ve learnt during my whole time away. My eyes have been opened and I’ll be forever grateful to our guides Alvin and Jagger for introducing us to the beauty of the jungle and the wonderful creatures it contains.

Our first stop was Matang Wildlife Centre, about an hour from Kuching. This is a rehabilitation centre for Orangutans, Sun Bears, Crocodiles and Monkeys, amongst several other animals. Whilst we were here we helped make enrichment packages for both the Orangutans and the Sun Bears.

This involved hiding treats, using different materials, for them to open and enjoy. Our half of the group made some for the Orangutans, and despite us spending 2 hours making them – trying to make them as hard to get at as possible – the animals that are 96% similar to us, managed to get at their treats within minutes.

Most of the animals they rescue have been kept illegally as pets, including birds which they had a lot of. Whilst at the centre we heard about the horrific back stories of some of their animals. We learnt about a bear who was kept in a cage not big enough to stand for 18 years, and about a gibbon who they assume used to work for the circus because despite being a the centre for years she still makes the gestures as if she’s juggling when humans walk past.

We were told about “Bear Bile Farming” which involves the bears being kept in tiny cages with a tube going into their gall bladder. In Chinese medicine they believe the bile has healing powers, so by keeping the bears they have constant access to it.

The sad thing is that bears are strong enough to withstand this, so they’re powerless to stop their own suffering. We also learnt about bear paw soup, and how sometimes bears will be kept alive outside of restaurants, often with paws missing, so that when someone orders the dish it will be as fresh as possible.

Hearing about all these horrific stories filled me with an inextinguishable anger and once again I was questioning how people can be so cruel to animals who are often incapable of self defensive and of speaking out. The power to stop this kind of behaviour though lies with the consumer, the people ordering the soup, the people buying the animals for pets that they’re bound to get bored of, the people going to circuses with animal acts.

If you take away the demand for such things, the people who are making a living out of them will have to look elsewhere. Often people are trying to make money, to support their families or just so they can afford food to eat. It’s difficult to say whether the blame lies with them, when its foreign consumers who are letting them continue.

On our last morning at Matang, just before leaving, we met Alvin and Jagger, our guides for the duration. Alvin is a wonderful man, but is full with a lot of anger about the situation in Borneo, with the rainforests being destroyed and the animals, especially Orangutans becoming at risk of extinction.

He gave us a long talk about how Matang is keeping animals in cages when they should be in the wild, implying that what they were doing there was wrong. Although looking back I think he was rather saying that He’s frustrated and angry that there’s even a need for places like Matang.

However, a lot of the group suddenly decided that there was something “not quite right about Matang” and that they were doing the wrong thing. I couldn’t believe the sudden switch, and personally believe that there is a very definite reason programs like this exist and there’s a need for them.

An animal who’s been brought up as a pet and never seen the wild, who’s mother was killed so could never teach them how to survive, would likely not live for long if they were released. There’s a reason they’re in there, and the enclosures they are living in, and the care and love they are receiving is a great deal better than the horrific lives they were living before

They talk as if these issues are so easy to solve – “just invest in bigger cages” – the money is hard to find, and by the sounds of things so is the permission. I just think it’s really naive to think all animals are able to live in the wild, especially when you have the human race training hem for the circus, or beating elephants so much that they can be used for elephant riding.

You can’t tell me that a sun bear who lived in a cage barely bigger than herself for 18 years would be able to survive outside in the wild by herself, I just don’t believe that’s the better option for her.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Letters from a Solivagant: Borneo
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Friday, April 01, 2016

What will climate change mean for Borneo’s carnivorous pitcher-plants?


  • Pitcher-plants of the genus Nepenthes are tropical carnivorous plants that trap and digest insects.
  • Some of Borneo's pitcher plants inhabit a broad altitudinal range in its mountainous forests, while others are limited to a narrow band.
  • Models indicate that one of these narrow-band species will go extinct by 2050 if current warming trends continue.

Nepenthes, or tropical pitcher plants, are a genus of carnivorous plants well known for their intricate and beautiful pitcher-shaped leaves that trap and digest insects. The genus is comprised of approximately 150 species, most of which are endemic to the Old World Tropics.

The greatest diversity of Nepenthes are found in Borneo, Sumatra and the Philippines. Plants within the Nepenthes genus grow within a broad altitude range from sea level to 3,400 meters (11,100 feet). But some species are restricted to narrower ranges, and may face extinction in a warming world.

At 140 million years old, the Borneo rainforest is one of the oldest rainforests in the world. Approximately 15,000 species of flowering plants and 3,000 tree species comingle and compete for space in this dense plant community.

The Borneo rainforest is also home to various indigenous peoples, a treasure trove of medicinal plants, and a rich collection of carnivorous plants. Carnivorous plants can be found throughout Borneo but one especially accessible area to visit tropical pitcher plants is in Bako National Park.

Bako National Park is the oldest National Park in the Sarawak region of Malaysian Borneo. The park is close enough to the city of Sarawak to visit in one day. Once in the park, hikers can explore the intertidal zone of the South China Sea and trek into steep regions of montane forest in the same day. Wildlife is abundant.

One particular trail, the Lintang Trail, leads hikers along mangrove boardwalks near the Park headquarters and up a steep sandstone escarpment. Hikers eventually reach a plateau area that is part keranga, or dry heath forest, and part bare sandstone rock. It doesn’t take a well-trained botanist to spot abundant tropical pitcher plants while hiking around the Lintang trail. 

Nepenthes are everywhere along the trail and appear quite healthy. Multiple Nepenthes species thrive in Bako National Park, but one species, Raffles’ pitcher-plant (N. rafflesiana), is particularly well represented along this trail.

Raffles’ pitcher-plants grow happily in various microenvironments: peat swamp forests, heath forests, cliffsides and keranga forest. Furthermore, this species lives within a broad altitude range, and is found at sea level all the way up to 1,500 meters (5,000 feet).

Thanks in part to its flexible altitude range, this Nepenthes species enjoys healthy population numbers and is currently listed as a Least Concern species on the IUCN list of endangered species.

Now, let’s compare this scenario with another tropical pitcher plant living in Borneo, the large-leaved pitcher-plant, (Nepenthes macrophylla). Unlike Raffle’s pitcher plant, this species can tolerate only a narrow range in altitude, growing exclusively on mossy ridges along Mount Trusmadi between 2,000 and 2,600 meters (6,500 and 8,200 feet) (Clarke, 1997.) Mount Trusmadi is located in Sabah, the eastern region of Borneo.

The peak of Mount Trusmadi sits at 2642 meters (8667 feet), so the narrow altitude range of the large-leaved pitcher-plant extends almost up to the summit. Due in part to this restrictive geographic range, the population of this Nepenthes species is in a precarious situation, and is currently listed as Critically Endangered on the IUCN list.

Okay, so what are the most probable fates of these two different Nepenthes species in the next 100 years as the world warms? Would populations of large-leaved and Raffles’ pitcher-plants be impacted by the predicted rise in global temperatures?

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Sunday, March 27, 2016

38 Gorgeous Photos To Prove That Sabah Is Truly A Rare Gem Of Southeast Asia


Taking a step away from all the heat, haze and madness clouding the nation, we take a look at why most refer to Sabah as the jewel of Southeast Asia:


1. Stunning, jaw-dropping islands!

One of the first things that come to mind when one thinks of Sabah, would definitely be its breathtaking beach strips with blue-green crystal clear waters.

With islands like Sipadan, Mabul, Kapalai and more 'virgin' beaches, Sabah serves as the ideal destination to satisfy all your beach holiday cravings!


2. Locals there are probably the warmest and friendliest in the country

If there's anything that travellers most often worry about, it would most probably be language barrier.

However, Malaysians or in this case, Sabahans are mostly multilingual, with many that can speak at least three languages including English, Bahasa Baku, Mandarin, and other indigenous dialects.


3. There's lip-smacking CHEAP seafood and a delectable selection of local cuisine

One of the most popular local fruit in Sabah, 'Bambangan' is a type of wild-mango fruit that is known for its durian-like distinct scent.

The fruit is usually pickled, fried with onions and chillies to make sambal or tossed into a fresh salad.

Bambangan fruits are easily available in wet markets around the state.

Being a coastal state that is pretty much surrounded by the South China Sea, seafood is not only easily available but is also reasonable and rather cheap in Sabah, compared to other states in Malaysia.

To top it off, the eclectic blend of cultures add an interesting twist to the local dishes!


4. There are even dairy farms that resemble quaint little Swiss villages

Located at the foothill of Mount Kinabalu, Desa Cattle Dairy Farm offers one of the most amazing scenery one could envision.

Often chosen as a wedding photography destination, with the majestic Mount Kinabalu overlooking beautiful green pastures, the scenery is breathtaking, not forgetting the cool breeze that Kundasang has to offer.

The real attraction here is the cattle farm, producing about 900,00 litres of milk per year.

The farm is 199 hectares and most of the milking cows are Friesians, the highest milk producers of all cattle breeds.

A mini bonus if you are visiting the Desa Dairy Farm; the Kundasang War Memorial which is located just minutes away from the farm, will surely remind you of the majestic, medieval Scottish highlands!


5. Its lush rainforests could easily rival the Amazon

Did you know that the Borneo tropical rainforest is about 130 million years old, making it one of the oldest in the world?

While many parts of the country is covered in degraded jungles and secondary forests, Borneo's forest remains the only undisturbed virgin forest in the country, with a dizzying number of exquisite flora and fauna.

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Saturday, March 26, 2016

2 Weeks in Sabah Borneo


Borneo is an absolute dream and the only negative thing I can say about our time there is that we regret not spending more time there.  We had planned to spend much more time and for some reason we got there and realized we would have to cut our time short. It was just poor planning on our part, but it gave us a good taste of what there is on offer there and we have no doubt we will be back.

As you know if you follow along, I am a rainforest jungle junkie. Whenever we get a chance to get out of the city into a forest or jungle I am completely in my element, so you can imagine that visiting the equatorial rainforests of Borneo was a highlight for both of us. There is just something about the sound of nothing, the sound of distant birds and crashing monkeys that just makes me feel at peace.  Borneo delivered on this aspect.

Top that off with some of the most stunning islands and underwater life we have ever seen and we are raving about this destination. Simply put, we cannot wait to get back and it seems our list of places to revisit in Southeast Asia continues to grow.

Now that I have told you about our new found love I’ll divulge on a couple other things. This island is an adventurers paradise with a variety of things to do on the ground, in the clouds and under the water. The opportunities are endless if you have the energy. Getting around the country in really easy with efficient bus routes and perfectly scattered airports. Transportation is affordable as well.  There really isn’t a real reason to not come here and just explore all that it has to offer, other than time of course. That will be your only limit.

Where Did We Go?

We visited the Malaysian State of of Sabah, leaving Sarawak State and Kalimantan, the Indonesian side of Borneo unexplored for now. Our stops included Kota Kinabalu, Sandakan, Sukau, Kinabatangan River, Sepilok, Semporna, Mabul, Kapalai, Siamil and Sipadan.

What We Loved:

Borneo is stunning and the few parts we saw delivered on all aspects of what we expected.

Adventure. Sabah is an adventure lovers paradise. There is a trek, climb, safari, dive and more around every single corner. The cities of course are modern and it is easy to find your every day comforts but once you get outside of them, nothing but adventure awaits you in the undeveloped areas.

Prime Equatorial Rainforests.  Ah, I get goosebumps just thinking about it and regret not spending more time exploring them. I am genuinely fascinated by dense rainforests and after seeing many different versions of them around the World, there was only one that swept me off my feet, the Amazon Rainforest. That was until we paid a visit to Borneo, while it’s not as big, the rainforests here are a close second and well above many others we have trodden through over the years.

World Class Scuba Diving. Well, I had to mention this as Sabah boasts one of the World’s top 5 dive sites with Sipadan Island. Of course we couldn’t resist the urge to dive here, so we spent 5 days living on an island diving Sipadan and the surrounding islands of Mabul, Kapalai and Siamil. It really was world class.

The Wildlife. Borneo is home to so many endemic species, I can’t even remember them all. This makes for spectacular wildlife viewing just about anywhere you go. We even went out birding and on a wildlife safari where we spotted Proboscis Monkeys, Silver Langurs, Orangutans, several varieties of Hornbills and other endemic species.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: 2 Weeks in Sabah Borneo
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Thursday, February 25, 2016

Borneo Rainforest Adventure Walk - Borneo Kalimantan


Balikpapan is the second largest city in East Kalimantan, a province in Indonesia bordering Sarawak in Malaysia. The coastal city is situated on the east coast of Borneo and is mostly known for its palm oil, coal mining and oil refineries.

Balikpapan is a little off the beaten and track for most tourists. Whilst it’s not your everyday tourist destination, there are quite a few things to do and see around Balikpapan, including a Borneo rainforest walk.


Volunteering with orangutans

I was there as a volunteer at the Samboja Lestari Orangutan and Sun Bear Sanctuary, just outside the village of Samboja. Volunteering is a unique way to holiday as aside from working with these beautiful but sadly endangered animals, we also had the opportunity to see what else the surrounds had to offer. 

One of our extra-orangutan curricular activities was a walk in the tropical Bangkirai Hill Borneo Rainforest. The forest is not far from Samboja, and 58km from Balikpapan.

For the other volunteers who were not from Queensland (or similar sub-tropical and tropical regions) a walk in this Borneo rainforest was an opportunity to experience the tropics in all its splendour (and leeches).

 
Borneo rainforest walk

Close to the renowned Canopy Bridge Walk was the start of many forest treks.

We paid our entrance fee and took a local guide to accompany our group of 12 volunteers.

Off we set.

Light rain rapidly turned into a heavy tropical and steamy downpour, typical of a Borneo rainforest.

Thank God for the $3 poncho I had stuffed into my non-waterproof daypack. It turned out to be a life saver. 

Our Borneo rainforest walk wasn’t so much of a walk but a jungle scramble, up and over large wide fallen tree trunks.

We constantly fell over trip hazard vines that grabbed your shoe or ankles.

Wait-a-while tendrils held onto our soaked clothing, many times ripping my protective poncho armour.


Fear of leeches

Once the rain stopped everyone breathed a sigh of relief, but the humidity heightened.

I have a morbid fear of leeches. I refuse to have anything share my blood. No one hops on me for a free ride, if I can help it. 

Our guide simply could not understand why I refused to take my poncho off after the rain.

The fear of something grabbing or attaching itself to me in the dense undulating thicket was enough to make me sweat litres under that poncho. And I wasn’t about to take it off for anyone! 

I knew about opportunistic acrobatic leeches leaping off leaves onto unsuspecting trampers. I wasn’t about to become a victim. 

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Borneo Rainforest Adventure Walk - Borneo Kalimantan
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