In Search of the End of the Sidewalk: Caving in the Wilds of Borneo

As a child, Borneo held a place in my mind right alongside the mystical lands of fairy tales and mythology. It seemed just as likely that I would encounter the last unicorn or lose a glass slipper as I was to wander the lands of sultans and pit vipers.

And yet…

You just never know where life is going to take you. I’ve yet to save a race of mythological creature or fit my foot comfortably into any shoe in Asia, but after last weekend’s adventures in Sarawak, I do feel like I have partially conquered Borneo.

Mulu Caves, located in basically the middle of nowhere Borneo, came highly recommended as a long weekend getaway. Famous (relatively, as many of my local colleagues were either unware of its existence or utterly uninterested) for the nightly bat exodus from Deer Cave, Mulu also has a variety of hikes and caves to be explored and not wanting to let our last month in Malaysia slip away without another weekend-quest, I bought plane tickets, reserved hotel rooms, packed clothes that I didn’t mind destroying and headed out to see what the magical land of Borneo had to offer this time around

Getting to Mulu is no easy task, in and of itself. When I say it is in the middle of nowhere, that is in no way an understatement. The fastest way is to fly, which means landing in Miri and then taking a thirty-minute flight on a prop plane over the mountains to the one-desk airport that is the transportation hub of Mulu. I’ve flown on countless flights over the years, some a bit bumpier than others, but rarely have I been on one that made my nerves wiggle like this one did.

My only mental saving grace was the fact that the one flight attendant was strapped into his jump seat, looking bored, like a kid who has ridden the same roller coaster too many times. Unless I spotted a tinge of panic in his eyes, I figured I had nothing to worry about. And there was no tinge. Just boredom by an amazing view that had become commonplace for him. (And possibly the thought that the rest of his day included handing out boxed Milo to disembarking passengers and then the daily return flight back over those mountains to Miri.)

If the flight, short as it is, doesn’t appeal, travelers can always opt for the river-route, but that is a painful seven hours, that while I am sure is stunningly beautiful, is not meant for foreigners, but rather a way of life for those transporting goods up and down the river. There are no roads, a fact that becomes quite obvious flying over the rainforest that is just a carpet of green broken only by the brown serpentine river making its lazy way through a land from another era.

Arriving in Mulu is another piece of the adventure pie, as the airport really does have a single desk. The one runway is just long enough for a small plane to touchdown and get the brakes on, make a U-turn and pull up in front of an open-air building. (On our way out of the area a few days later, a Hungarian guy we were sitting with decided to go ask when the flight would depart, as we were told it would be at least a half an hour late; it had not yet left Miri. He came back to our table with a smile, saying the desk attendant told him that when he heard the plane, it was here.

That really was the way the airport worked. When you’ve only got two flights a day, it isn’t hard to keep track of them. They arrive when they do. Or, they don’t arrive at all and you go back to your hotel for another night. Nothing to get worked up about.)

Once we checked into our hotel (a very nice Marriott that is about as malapropos as possible in the rustic setting), we embarked on what would be a weekend of adventure.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: In Search of the End of the Sidewalk: Caving in the Wilds of Borneo

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VickyGoesTravelling - Of headhunters, bat caves and apes in deepest Borneo

Nicholas meets us at the airport. He is our Iban guide, descended from the legendary headhunters and heavily tattooed in traditional fashion.  He will be looking after us for our few days in Mulu, in the heart of Borneo, bordering Brunei.

We have flown here from Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, in Malaysian Borneo. Our hotel, the Ranee Suites, is on the Grand Bazaar, trading centre of the ancient river port of the city, which was ruled for years by Rajah James Brooke and his descendants, until the British made Sarawak into a colony after the 2WW.

It is Chinese New Year and the old Chinese shophouse-lined streets are quiet as we promenade along the front – everyone is at home feasting, save for a few girls practising their kung fu; and a few families queuing up for revolting-looking fast food.

Just as more revellers arrive to party the heavens open and torrential rain, thunder and lightening envelop us all. It does not bode well for our trip whose objective is a 2-day trek along the ancient Headhunter Trail through the rainforest – it is, we are told constantly, the height of the rainy season.

The next day we set off in the same thunderstorm for the one-and-a-half-hour flight to Mulu, where we are to spend the first night and visit the largest cave system in the world, and see for ourselves what 3 million bats going hunting look like.

As we come to land, I look out of the window and see miles and miles of impenetrable jungle, punctuated by brown rivers snaking their way, higgledy-piggledy, and by limestone karsts jutting out of the green carpet beneath us. Low cloud suspended in mid-air adds to the eerie scene.

We are blown away by the scale and beauty of the caves, two of which we see on the first evening, and two more on the second day. Beautifully maintained by National Parks, who have installed walkways around the vast interiors, which take us past spectacular stalactites and stalagmites, jelly-fish and chandelier formations, all of which Nicholas, in true Asiatic fashion, says resemble queens, kings, witches, fairies, and even Abe Lincoln (!). The Chinese must love this, we say to each other!

Inside we can hear the twittering of the 3 million wrinkle-lipped bats who roost in the largest of the caverns, Deer Cave, while little swiftlets zoom around us. Amazingly there is no one else in the caves when we are there which adds to the experience.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics and Vids) at: VickyGoesTravelling - Of headhunters, bat caves and apes in deepest Borneo

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Ancient cave found in Mulu

KUCHING: A new cave, estimated to be around six million years old, has been discovered within the Mulu limestone system.

This discovery is expected to boost the state’s tourism industry, said Chief Minister Datuk Patinggi Tan Sri Adenan Satem.

“I have some good news to tell you. We have discovered one more beautiful cave in the Mulu system. We have Deer Cave, Clear Water Cave, King’s Chamber, and now an additional one—some distance from the present Mulu.

“We cannot name it now because the tradition is that we name it after the person who discovered it. This cave is about six million years old. For the first time, human beings in six million years set foot on this cave. So, I think that is another feature for Sarawak,” he said at Sarawak Forestry Corporation’s (SFC) 12th anniversary dinner here last night.

However, when met by reporters later, SFC chief executive officer Wong Ting Chung said the new discovery, which was confirmed about three weeks ago, had already been named ‘Conviction Cave’

He said ‘Conviction Cave’ was discovered by explorer Andy Eavis from the United Kingdom. According to Wong, Eavis has been carrying out expeditions in the Mulu region since 1977.

He added that the new cave was practically untouched and the layers said a lot about its age. On the significance of the new cave, Wong said: “No human has set foot on it before. It is very rugged and makes it difficult to get there.”

He added that the layers of limestone of the cave remained untouched for centuries, which made it very significant.

“Scientifically, it is a significant discovery. It is now up to scientists and the state government how we want to go from there, whether to make it an eco-tourism product or something else.”

Meanwhile, Adenan believed there were more caves in the region that had yet to be discovered. He was also confident the newly discovered cave would augur well for the tourism industry.

On a related matter, he called upon all to regard the state’s forests as a treasure instead of just treating them as a means to bag more profits.

“I want people to look at our forests as naturalists and not just getting timber out of it and seeing dollar signs.”

Noting that natural forests and tropical forests in many parts across the world were gravely depleting, he said he did not want to see the same phenomena happening in Sarawak.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Ancient cave found in Mulu

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Amos-phere: Borneo Stories – Mulu National Park, Sarawak

Mulu National Park

Why visit... when you feel like taking the road less travelled, head to www.mulupark.com. 

A  UNESCO World Heritage site with lush, equatorial rainforest and mystical caves systems dating back more than 40 million years, the park is tucked into a hidden corner of North Sarawak on the island of Borneo.

Home to more than four million bats and swiftlets which make their way out of Deer Cave each evening at sunset, the park is at once eerie and awe-inspiring.

Why not... cruise along the Melinau River by long-tail boat to reach Clearwater Cave.

The river is fast moving, yet shallow and rocky, thus making getting stuck inevitable.

Be prepared to leap out at a moment’s notice to assist the boatman with a hearty push.

More than 200 steps lead to the entrance of the cave but you will be rewarded with a cool breeze and floating bridges, under which the underground river flows.

Get high... on the canopy tour.

Tip toe across the wood and rope walkways and keep an eye out for monkeys and birdlife.

Rise early for the sunrise tour.

The reward for those brave enough to try it, is the sounds of the rainforest bursting into life.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Amos-phere: Borneo Stories – Mulu National Park, Sarawak

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Exploring the Caves of Borneo’s Gunung Mulu National Park

Gunung Mulu National Park in northern Sarawak is one for adventure seekers. The remote melange of karst formations, caves and pinnacles lies in the equatorial rainforest of Malaysian Borneo, bordering Brunei to the north.

Expeditions to Mulu in the late 1970s revealed much about the genesis of the park and its geographical configuration, but even though it is one of the most studied tropical karst areas in the world, it’s believed that only 30 to 40 percent of the park’s cave passages have been surveyed, leaving much still to be discovered.

The park just opened to trekkers in 1984, and until 1991, the UNESCO World Heritage site could only be reached by boat–a 12 hour ride from Miri. Today, visitors travel through Mulu Airport where there are limited flights coming in from Miri, Kuching and Kota Kinabalu.

Shuttles from the airport take you directly to the park and few local accommodations. Outside of the park, the Mulu Marriott Resort & Spa, the airport, a small clinic and a couple of guesthouses are the only things to stand other than rainforest.

On my short flight from Kuching to Mulu, fellow travelers and I couldn’t help but remark on how it looked like we were flying over a vast expanse of broccoli heads. In the sky and on the ground, Mulu is tropical rainforest as far as the eye can see.

Stepping off the plane and through the airport, the diversity of Mulu’s flora and fauna became apparent and I made sure to wheel my suitcase carefully, avoiding the enormous stick bugs hiding in plain sight.

The park shelters all different types of exotic insects, animals and plants. On my day trek to the Deer and Lang caves, we spotted lizards, moths, stick bugs, butterflies, frogs and bats, of course. Other inhabitants, ones that I unfortunately wasn’t able to see, include the rhinoceros hornbill (the state bird of Sarawak), bearded pig, moonrat, Bornean tarsier, gibbon, mouse deer and sun bear.

In order to explore a really good chunk of Mulu, most people choose to stay for at least three days. Depending on how active you’re looking to be and whether or not you’re interested in unwinding at a 5-star resort or keeping it low key at a homestay–you have options.

No matter which you choose, be prepared to disconnect during your stay–there is virtually no wifi in Mulu–and embrace a technology-free couple of days. Here are just a few of the highlights of Gunung Mulu National Park, as well as a list of accommodations sure to please all types of travelers.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Exploring the Caves of Borneo’s Gunung Mulu National Park

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Borneo: Going deeper

Jungle presses in on both sides. A metre-long python dangles from a branch like a lost scarf awaiting its owner's return.

We watch for 10 minutes. The snake watches us watching it. It suddenly uncoils its powerful body, slithering languidly from view, deeper into the dense Borneo jungle.

Tropical ferns and vines glisten moistly, reminding me of a deafening downpour ending moments before this boardwalk stroll began. Our destination: Deer Cave, the most visited diversion in Gunung Mulu National Park. A World Heritage site, the park attracts holidaymakers to Sarawak, one of two Malaysian states on the Southeast Asian island of Borneo.

There are three ways to reach this remote gem. The easy way in, chosen by almost all tourists, is by air (with several half-hour flights each day from Miri, a modern, mid-sized city).

Two alternatives are undeniably memorable: jungle river ferries - the preference of some backpackers - or a challenging land-and-water route for the fit and intrepid, combining four-wheel-drives along former logging trails with hiking and river boats.

From a treetop-level bird "hide" - for discreet observation of avian life - I gaze upon a stunningly beautiful jungle backdrop.

A big-beaked hornbill, a member of one of the park's eight hornbill species, sits on a nearby tree branch. Sarawak terms itself "land of the hornbills", with these strange-looking creatures plentiful in the park.

I wander along a 480m jungle canopy walkway, which park officials call earth's longest tree-based crossing. The rainforest and its rivers support an array of wildlife: bearded pigs, pangolins, crocodiles, squirrels, sun bears, barking deer (and other antelope types).

Next day, I sample a chunk of Headhunter's Trail, one of many hiking trails and named for a long-gone custom of beheading enemies.

In the evening, a night cruise up the Melinau River has guides identifying insects, frogs and nocturnal birds.

But what attracts most visitors is a collection of caves. This 52,000ha reserve is pockmarked by spectacular cavities - including Sarawak Chamber, the world's largest cave, which boasts an interior so cavernous that 40 jumbo jets could park inside.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Borneo: Going deeper

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Mystical caves of Gunung Mulu National Park

To some people, the exodus of millions of bats from the cave may send chills down their spines, but for nature lovers, it is a sight to behold. If that is not enough, how about a cave that is so big until it can accommodate forty Boeing 747 airplanes or five times the size of London’s St. Paul’s Cathedral?

Yes, we are talking about the caves of Gunung Mulu National Park, renowned for their natural splendor and mystical charms. The Gunung Mulu National Park is one of two UNESCO World Heritage Sites in East Malaysia. The Park, covering 338 square miles is the largest national park in Sarawak.

It is also home to the world’s largest cave chamber (Sarawak Chamber), the world’s largest cave passage (Deer Cave), Asia’s longest cave (Clearwater Cave) and a treasure trove of 2,000 varieties of plants and animals, from 8 types of hornbills, 170 species of orchids to 10 species of pitcher plants. The Gunung Mulu National Park also covers the world’s longest tree-based walkway – a 480-metre rainforest canopy skywalk and the spectacular razor-sharp limestone Pinnacle.

Godzilla-sized caves. Spellbinding adventures.

Imagine forty Boeing 747 airplanes fitting into a cave chamber. That is what the Sarawak Chamber, measuring at 1,968 feet by 415-metre and 1,361 feet high can do. Located in the Good Luck Cave (Gua Nasib Bagus) of Gunung Mulu National Park, the Sarawak Chamber is the world’s largest underground cave chamber.

The interesting fact about the Sarawak Chamber is one must follow a river upstream from the cave entrance to reach the chamber. Taking a journey along the passage with a roof up to 196 feet is truly as adventurous as the cave itself!

Another fascinating huge creation of Mother Nature is the Deer Cave. It is the world’s largest cave passage – so huge to the extent that it can hold five times the size of London’s St. Paul’s Cathedral!

This is also where you will find about 3 million bats forming clouds circling higher and higher up the cliff like a tornado, leaving the cave and spiraling into the rainforests in the evening. Best of all, you can catch this natural phenomenon at the bat observatory deck. It has been reported that there are twelve species of bats in the Deer Cave, including the colony of wrinkled-lipped bats. Other animals in the cave include swiftlets, earwigs, centipedes, crickets, spiders, white crabs and scorpions.

To further thrill visitors, it is not just in Mount Rushmore National Memorial in the United States that has the famous rock sculptures of four US Presidents. Be surprised to discover Deer Cave’s very own limestone shape has the side profile of America’s 16th President, Abraham Lincoln.

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Mystical caves of Gunung Mulu National Park

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A gem in the Borneo jungle

Jungle presses in on both sides. A one-metre python dangles from a branch like a lost scarf awaiting its owner's return. We watch for 10 minutes. The snake watches us watching it.

It suddenly uncoils its powerful body, slithering languidly from view, deeper into the dense Borneo jungle. Tropical ferns and vines glisten moistly, reminding me of a deafening downpour ending moments before this boardwalk stroll began. Our destination: Deer Cave, the most visited diversion in Gunung Mulu National Park. A World Heritage site, the park attracts holidaymakers to Sarawak, one of two Malaysian states on the Southeast Asian island of Borneo.

There are three ways to reach this remote gem. The easy way in, chosen by almost all tourists, is by air (with several half-hour flights each day from Miri, a modern and mid-sized city).

Two alternatives are undeniably memorable: jungle river ferries - the preference of some backpackers - or a challenging land-and-water route for the fit and intrepid, combining four-wheel-drives along former logging trails with hiking and river boats.

From a treetop-level bird "hide" - for discreet observation of avian life - I gaze upon a stunningly beautiful jungle backdrop. A big-beaked hornbill, a member of one of the park's eight hornbill species, sits on a nearby tree branch. Sarawak terms itself "land of the hornbills", with these strange-looking creatures plentiful in the park.

I wander along a 480m jungle canopy walkway, which park officials call earth's longest tree-based crossing.

The rainforest and its rivers support an array of wildlife: bearded pigs, pangolins, crocodiles, squirrels, sun bears, barking deer (and other antelope types).

Next day, I sample a chunk of Head Hunter's Trail, one of many hiking trails and named for a long-gone custom of beheading enemies. In the evening, a night cruise up the Melinau River has guides identifying insects, frogs and nocturnal birds.

But what attracts most visitors is a collection of caves. This 52,000ha reserve is pockmarked by spectacular cavities - including Sarawak Chamber, the world's largest cave, which boasts an interior so cavernous that 40 jumbo jets could park inside.

But here's the catch. The Sarawak Chamber is one of several hard-to-get-to "wild caves" without lighting or pathways.

Park authorities admit only those proving they're experienced cavers (sometimes with letters from foreign caving clubs) and agreeing to be accompanied by guides. Gruelling hikes often precede visits to "wild caves" with narrow crevices and tunnels.

Four so-called "show caves" are an altogether tamer - and more popular - diversion. Exploring is eased by boardwalks and lighting.

That's why I find myself on one boardwalk, traipsing through the Borneo jungle to Deer Cave, by far the most visited, where I transfer to another and venture inside.

Continue reading at: A gem in the Borneo jungle

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To Mulu and the Borneo cave mec

It was an early rise at Wod Ji Lodge for me, pack and meet the girls for our flight to Mulu National Park in the Bornean High country, all aboard in our taxi and we’re off ( Mags has the back pack from hell 23kg almost taller then her ).

We’re all staying at differant places , so i check into the Nat Park 22person dorm with fear, but its all good small rooms all joining, unpack and then head down to the girls home stay to catch up and work out whos doing what caving and treking…

And Nick joins the group, another fair dinkum Aussie even though he’s a vegan ;) , a new friend made. We decide a walk to the little waterfall is in need as we all want to get wet and cool down in the tropical rain forest. 15mins walk and we arive at a beautif little waterfall and all dive straight in…. yeah this is living.

We all meet up for dinner at Nick, Denise and MAgs homestay, a wicked veggie rice with jungle greens and a cold tiger beer (well a few) and then home to bed for another early rise.

Out of bed early and meet Nick for our all day garden of Eden trek through deer cave, the 2nd biggest cave in the world and an Attinbough location…. stoked as… 6 of us and our guide set of for Deer Cave through the rain forest, all amped and awaiting the highlight of Mulu Nat Park. The enterance of the cave was jaw dropping, palm trees 100ft high and being dwalfed by the cave roof, and in we went, to the den of 5 million bats…

All a grin with excitement, head lamps on, eyes following the light every where… AND THEN IT HITS YOU… the Amonia gas… OMG! As we walk through the cave following our guide my thought pattern is ‘David Attenbourgh was her… wow look at that…. OMG I’m going to be sick… David Attenbourgh was here’ you get the picture.

As the cave continued on the air freshened up and so did the sightsbats clinging to the celing in black clous, cilindrical water falls, a cave that supposably you can fly a jumbo jet through and then the garden of eden, the exit of the cave a lust green view of tropical majisty.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: To Mulu and the Borneo cave mec

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Gunung Mulu Park

The flight was called to Mulu and only seven of us got up to board the plane. It was a small plane with propellers (sorry don't know which plane) but could easily take 40 people and we were the only ones getting on as if it was our private plane.

It was a wonderful flight because not only were we flying low, it was very good visibility and we could move from side to side and really take in the amazing scenery of Brunei and the coast - not forgetting the extra packets of peanuts too!

The other Taiwanese family were also staying at our homestay and it was just beside the very small airport of Mulu. D'Cave is a very nice homestay, cheap, clean and serves the best breakfasts ever! The mixed dorm consisted of 10 of us and the cats who seemed to come and sleep on my bed.

There were other rooms too and it was a lovely friendly atmosphere of travellers coming and going. On our first day we had booked to do the Garden of Eden Walk which had been recommended to me. When we went to register the man took one look at us and explained how difficult it was and did we think we could do it!!

Well of course we did but as a safety precaution they sent another guide in case one of us had to be brought back! The 8 of us plus the 2 guides set off at 9.30 and the first challenge was to walk and climb through Deer Cave, which is the largest cave in the world I believe, with a height of 148 m and 142 m width in places and about 1 km long.

It is truly spectacular and words or photos can hardly do justice to its immense size. There used to be lots of deer who used it for shelter and salt but of course they have all been hunted now.

It was a challenging climb not helped by the slippery rocks but we made it through to the other side and the Garden of Eden. We then had to follow the river and eventually start climbing up into the hills to the destination of a beautiful waterfall.

We had a swim, lunch and then headed back again. We went a different way through the Deer Cave which involved walking through water. Our guide said it was up to our chest and just to hold our bags up, when suddenly he completely disappeared in front of me and then I found myself "swimming" trying to keep my bag dry.

The next stage we gave our bags to the other guide and this time we just swam through the river and it was great.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Gunung Mulu Park

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Hiking in Borneo

One of my favourite highlights from travelling our beautiful planet has been hiking through the tropical green jungles of Mulu National Park in Borneo. Here, clear flowing rivers wind through the dense forests like dancing snakes.

Travel throughout the river systems is usually by longboats that seem to fly noisily through the water, past makeshift houses in scattered villages inhabited by the nomadic Sarawakian tribes of the Penan people.

The Penan children are beautiful, with sweet smiles, ebony hair and olive skin. Passing by I smiled and was greeted with the occasional wave as young girls splashed about in the water, seemingly oblivious to the hot, thick jungle air.

Huge white limestone mountains emerge from the forest canopy with impressive jagged cliff faces. The Clearwater Cave and Cave of the Winds may be explored in the Gunung Api section of the Melinau limestone. During our hike we walked through the impressive Kings Chamber, identified by giant honeycomb columns and stalagmites.

Whilst inside the Cave of the Winds, we noticed the temperature of the humid jungle air plummet as cool wind flowed through the cave along the same route of an ancient river that formed the cave many thousands of years earlier.

To walk into a dark, damp cave can be a daunting experience, I recall the sound of dripping water and the faint rushing sounds of an underwater river echoing along the stone walls. Suddenly I was aware of a tiny galaxy of scattered stars above me and for the first time in my life I could clearly make out the insect lures of glow worm threads that dangled like silk from the cave ceiling.

This feeling of awe struck me again and again as I ventured throughout the cave and I couldn't believe my eyes when I witnessed the wondrous sight of three million naked bats streaming from the mouth of Deer Cave like moving ribbons drifting towards the sunset. The ribbons looked like giant serpents and sounded like swarms of buzzing wasps as birds of prey circled nearby to capture any unfortunate strays.

At the entrance of Deer Cave we saw the side profile of 'The Boss', aka U.S. President Abraham Lincoln. From the perfect angle, the silhouette of Abe's pointy nose and iconic chin can be made out against the mouth of the cave entrance.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Hiking in Borneo Part I

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The Caves of Gunung Mulu

The World Heritage Area of Gunung Mulu in Malaysian Borneo is a rich rain forest that is short in comfort – save for the Royal Mulu Resort – but big on creatures and caves.

The caves at Mulu National Park bring travellers from around the world, most notably for the famous bat exodus from Deer Cave.

When I was spending time in Mulu I had the pleasure of checking out Deer Dave, along with Langs, Clearwater and Cave of the Winds caves. Each one had it’s own appeal and unique characteristics. But first, my favourite…as with most people who visit, was Deer Cave.

Deer Cave

This is a massive cave that boasts the largest cave entrance in the world! The walk into the cave is along a mountainside pathway, and you sort of come around a corner to the cave entrance, not getting to appreciate it’s full size until you’re inside it, looking back out. Cavernous is an appropriate word for Deer Cave.

The trail here is fun to walk along and spot odd formations from the carved out limestone cave, which once had a powerful river running through it. Your walk will take you to some cool spots in the cave like the Garden of Eden Pools.

It is also home to millions of bats that live high up above in the interior ceiling of the cave. There are also a ton of ugly critter like beetles and spiders, but you don’t really see them unless you shine your light into the darkness away from the footpaths. There is a viewing platform area way back down below that provides a panoramic view of the limestone mountain and cave entrance. People gather there around dusk to watch the millions of bats fly out of the cave.

Langs Cave

A much smaller cave, Langs Cave has the most impressive entrance way. It’s like a huge mouth opened up and put this cave on display  As with Deer Cave and any other caves you visit in Mulu, don’t forget to bring a headlamp / torch with you as it can get dark in some areas inside the cave.

Lots of stalactites and stalagmites are found in this cave, which isn’t far from the larger Deer Cave. As with all of the caves you’re allowed to explore, there is a smooth pathway of boardwalks, staircases and platforms built inside the cave to keep you from touching (destroying) the sometimes fragile environment.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: The Caves of Gunung Mulu
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The wonders of Borneo

We first visited the island of Borneo 5 years ago, spending most of our time in Kuching, capital of the state of Sarawak. During the month or so that we spent there, we visited many schools and children’s homes to conduct our free anti-smoking and drug awareness programs, along with another program about initiative and spending money wisely. The reception was excellent with some of the best behaved & respectful students that we’ve every come across, (a far cry from Caribbean schools!).

We also got to visit some of the state’s national parks—beautiful, pristine forests/jungle with lakes, waterfalls and wildlife. However our limited time didn’t permit us to visit one of Sarawak’s best natural wonders: the Mulu caves.

This time around, we made sure we had enough time to thoroughly explore this amazing Unesco World Heritage site. According to the guidebooks, there are several contestants for the world’s largest cave, including the Sarawak chamber that is so big that 40 Boeing 747s could be parked in it without their wings overlapping! Spectacular stalactites and stalagmites abound, and having to access many of the caves via river trips through tropical jungle definitely adds to the overall magic!

The most amazing sight takes place outside Deer Cave at dusk: bats start to exit the cave system in search of tasty flying insects that abound in the surrounding jungle. The trickle soon becomes a ‘wave’, perhaps 50 to 80 metres long, composed of tens of thousands of small bats. The wave continues to twist and undulate as it mounts higher in the sky, creating a really unique spectacle!

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: The wonders of Borneo

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Borneo: Top 3 jungle parks

GUNUNG MULU NATIONAL PARK

Situated just below the equator, Gunung Mulu National Park is comprised of thick jungle and the best way to see it is by walking the Headhunter's Trail. The name is apt given that a five hour hike leads to the Pinnacles, a landscape of limestone peaks situated 45 metres above the rainforest. The site looks like an overrun graveyard of barbed tombstones and laying eyes on it makes the taxing hike all worthwhile.

Mulu is also home to a 480 metre canopy skywalk that features 15 platforms pinned to tall trees, allowing you to catch a glimpse of the life the rainforest supports. Beneath the teeming jungle, vast limestone caves extend for 300 kilometres and maintain their own diverse ecosystems. The Sarawak Chamber is the largest cave in the world, the size of 16 football fields. There is a skinny centipede in this subterranean world that leaves a glowing trail if placed on your palm. You'll still need a torch, however.

In Deer Cave there are an estimated 3.5 million bats hanging each day and at dusk they emerge from the cave en masse. Locals call the spectacle the "black dragon".

BAKO NATIONAL PARK

The oldest national park in Sarawak is reached via a longboat that passes fishing villages and lands on a beach that meets the South China Sea. Sandstone formations on the beach usher visitors into the lush mosaic of ecosystems that make up the park, ranging from beach to cliff, heath to mangrove and forest to grassland. You can take a hike through the thick jungle, negotiating tricky tree roots as you go, or opt for an easier boardwalk stroll over the peat swamp.

The jungle leaves are a vivid green and picking at the vegetation are monkeys native to the island. The easiest to recognise are the proboscis monkeys who have to move their dangling nose to one side in order to get the leaves in their mouth. The macaque and silver leaf monkeys are just as engaging.

The wildlife here has been protected for more than 60 years so the animals do not shy away from humans. The macaques, however, take this to the extreme and are known to pilfer any food you don't keep a close eye on. They congregate near the park's headquarters along with bearded pigs, creatures that are at about the same level as proboscis monkeys on the looks scale.

Continue reading (incl. Pics) at: Borneo: Top 3 jungle parks

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Bat hawks at Mulu Caves

TWIRLING, swirling, whirling and dancing best describe the 100,000 or so bats leaving the Deer Cave in Mulu at twilight. One of nature’s most spectacular displays, these mammals fly in a smoke formation across the sky trying to confuse and evade the bat hawk, which is ready to pounce on an unfortunate for an evening meal.

Well-adapted for the hunt, the carnivore has fluffy owl-like feathers for silent flying. The eyes are large, larger than all other hawks for twilight and dawn hunting. They have even been observed flying on moonlit nights, searching for bats.

Swiftlets are their other prey. A bane to bird’s nest farmers, these hawks also hunt the denizens of expensive well-constructed houses where research has determined a profitable location.

Uniquely, bat hawks only pursue during the times these animals gather in large numbers when leaving their roosts – bats at dusk, swiftlets at dawn. Sometimes, there is only an 18-minute window to capture their prey.

Most raptors have feet which they use to seize prey. Their beaks have been adapted to tear and cut flesh while perched. Probably because of their short hunting time, bat hawks are the only raptor that generally captures, swallows and digests their meal whole on the fly. Other raptors occasionally do also use this hunting technique.

They are very efficient hunters. Observations in Zambia, part of their tropical old world range, counted a kill and consumption rate of seven insect hunting bats during an 18.3-minute time frame over seven consecutive days. The males of this raptor species are generally approximately the same size as the females.

Examination of the pellets in Zimbabwe indicates bat hawks only take smaller prey. They seem to avoid animals greater than 30 grams. A hypothesis proposed by Landon Jones is that their digestive system is likely larger than most other hawks because it is thought they must ingest and digest rather quickly during their 30-minute hunting span.

But, how does the mouth differ from other raptors? A graduate student and his colleagues predicted the mouth of the bat hawk evolved to feed rapidly on small agile vertebrates and would be larger than most other raptors. They also forecast it would closely resemble the gape size of swifts, swallows and goatsuckers that capture, eat and digest insects while flying.

The researchers measured the gape opening size of 138 male species from six orders found in museums and university collections. They also randomly selected swifts, goatsuckers and swallows. Then they did a lot of math.

The results showed the beaks were a major departure from other hawks and most closely resembled the insect feeders as predicted. The bat hawk diverged and then evolved into a separate species to exploit their unique ecological niche. Interestingly, there are no bat hawks in the Americas although there is a bat falcon but it does not swallow prey whole.

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Bat hawks at Mulu Caves

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