Sunday, July 23, 2006

Mysteries in the mists of Kinabalu

By Julia Chan

KOTA KINABALU: A man who claimed to be an expert mountain climber tried to climb Mount Kinabalu without a guide — and went missing.

Park rangers found his body three months later, crouched behind a stone off the trail.

In 2001, British teenager Ellie James, 17, got lost on the mountain. Her body was found by Sabah Parks rangers near St John’s peak, not far from where they had been looking for her for a week.

The day after Ellie’s frozen body was found, almost 2km from where she missed the turning, the clouds cleared and the sun lit up the sky.

These and other stories of people going missing on the mountain, and climbers hearing strange noises and seeing strange sights, have fuelled the belief that Southeast Asia’s highest peak is inhabited by spirits.

Local dusun believe the mountain, Malaysia’s first World Heritage Site, is the resting place of the dead, and their spirits reside in the mountain, to be revered and held sacred.

To appease the spirits and pay them respect, a sacrificial ritual called momolunggah is performed at least once a year at Panar Laban or Sayat-Sayat.

Seven white chickens, seven eggs, tobacco, betel nuts, shiri leaves, salt and rice are offered.

According to former park warden Eric Wong, the ritual dates as far back as 1850, and is performed by bobolian, or priestesses, to ask permission to climb the mountain and pray for a safe journey, or for the safety of a coming event.

The ritual used to be performed before every expedition, which before the late 1970s was not very often. Now an estimated 40,000 people a year make the 4,095.2m climb to Low’s Peak.

"These days, with more than 100 climbers going up every day, the ritual is performed once a year. It is also performed when there is a pressing need, such as during the search for Ellie, and if a big group requests for it," said Wong.

However, Wong, who has climbed the mountain countless times, believes that it was the weather and over confidence that led to most incidents.

"A lot of people look at the mountain and underestimate its difficulty and potential danger.

"Ellie was stronger and faster than the rest of her group, and also very confident. She and her brother went ahead of the guide and missed a crucial turning."

Locals believe that spirits used the mist to lure her away.

But there have been events that even a non-believer like Wong, with 28 years’ experience, can’t explain.

Like the young Sarawakian girl who took some pebbles home from the mountain despite being told not to.

"She fell ill for no good reason and was haunted by nightmares every night," said park ranger Duanis Bousuning, 53.

"Her family consulted a medium who told them to return the pebbles, and perform some rituals."

Bousuning, who comes from Kampung Bundu Tuhan, Kundasang, has been a Sabah Parks ranger since 1982. He said usually only those with weak spiritual faith are "disturbed" by spirits.

"But I’ve noticed over the years that if there is any ‘bad behaviour’, such as excessive shouting, throwing stones and fooling around, it is almost certain to rain."

Courtesy of New Straits Times

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