OurGoldenYear.wordpress.com: Cruising the South China Sea (between Borneo and Vietnam)

The area we are sailing through today is one of the world’s most important waterways. One-third of all commercial shipping passes through these waters.

We attended the port talk about Brunei. Not many cruise ships stop here, do they may not be experts in tourism, but that is part of the travel adventure.

Brunei is one of the world’s richest countries. Its official name is “Nation of Brunei, the Abode of Peace”. The capital is Bandar Seri Begawan which the locals refer to as simply BSB. The country is the size of Rhode Island.

The country has been ruled by the same bloodline of sultans for over 600 years. We were told not to wear yellow or gold since in Brunei those colors are reserved for the royal family.

A beautiful mosque built by the current sultan has a solid gold dome and can hold 5,000 worshipers. Should be something to see!

Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

We did much better with today’s Trivia questions. I finished the blog for Semarang. I am trying to stay current. We have fewer sea days ahead of us, so blogging time will be limited.

There was an Atrium concert this afternoon by our resident pianist, Ferry P. Bedy. He played many of his own compositions. Some staff members sang solos during the concert accompanied by Ferry.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Our Golden Year: Cruising the South China Sea (between Borneo and Vietnam)

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Miss Filatelista: Bandar Seri Begawan Travel Guide - What to See, Eat, and Do

Brunei is easily the most underrated destination in all of Southeast Asia. The environmentally and culturally rich kingdom has loads to discover and is sure to thrill any traveler.

Yet, less than a quarter of a million tourists visited in 2015. Most visits to the country call for a few days in the capital of the Muslim state, Bandar Seri Begawan, or BSB as locals call it.

Although there are rumors that the streets of BSB are paved in gold, the world's fifth richest country as of 2016, isn't all that different from its ASEAN neighbors.

Here you can expect to explore villages, eat at hawker stands, discover stunning temples, swim in the South China Sea, and incredible wildlife native of the lush jungles.

The royal family is one of the wealthiest in the world, their private streets may very well be paved with gold as they live at Istana Nurul Iman, the world's largest residential palace complete with 1,788 rooms, a helipad, and five swimming pools.

Afterall Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, who has ruled since 1984,  is reportedly worth $20 billion. We spent nearly a week in the city – here is our guide to where to stay, what to do, see, and eat in BSB.

WHERE TO STAY IN BSB: JUBILEE HOTEL

We were guests of the princess during our trip to BSB. Well, not exactly. We were invited to stay at the Jubilee Hotel which is conveniently located in the city center within walking distance to most of the below sites and restaurants.

In the rather expensive BSB city center, Jubilee Hotel offers guests a comfortable place to stay with moderate prices with full amenities including complimentary buffet breakfast of western and eastern specialties, a small swimming pool, in-house cafe, and concierge service.

Throughout the property are beautiful vibrant paintings of local flowers, such as this stunning iris.

The rooms and furnishing are a bit outdated but it adds to the charm of what must have once been a very glamorous hotel.

Our room was really large with a super cozy bed. We enjoyed having coffee in our small sitting area each morning and taking in the views of the Omar Ali Saifuddien mosque from our room!

The staff is incredibly kind and they even offer complimentary airport transfers for guests. Jubilee Hotel is an ideal place to stay for a quick visit to BSB!

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Miss Filatelista: Bandar Seri Begawan Travel Guide - What to See, Eat, and Do

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Prlakwatsero: Land Travel By Bus: Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei to Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

There are three ways to reach Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia from Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei.

First ride a ferry via Labuan Island It will take 7 hours and land travel by bus via Sarawak, Malaysia it will take more or less 10 hours or take an hour flight from Brunei Airport.

Let's focus in land travel. There's no concrete info online regarding this route before I travel, but I really want to do it just because of the Passport stamp that I will get before I reach Kota Kinabalu.

One month before my travel date I purchase a bus ticket online via Sipitang Express.

This company is the only one offering a trip to Kota Kinabalu via Lawas, Sarawak Malaysia.

I was so nervous at first because of the multiple entry in the two countries.

I was consulting some of the travel blogger friends regarding on this matter doing a multiple entry into a visa free country.

They said nothing to worry about its fine.

I left the hotel in Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei around 7am since the bus will leave at 8am sharp.

My friend fetches me up in the hotel and drop off in the loading area of the bus.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Prlakwatsero: Land Travel By Bus: Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei to Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

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Sarawak to woo more tourists

KUCHING: The Sarawak government will issue a special entry pass for tourists on chartered flights to the state via Miri or Sungai Tujuh checkpoints.

Deputy Chief Minister Datuk Amar Abang Johari Tun Openg said the entry pass would replace the visa-on-arrival for tourists from China and India based on the state’s autonomy on immigration matters.

The special entry pass, with a validity period of 120 hours and which can be extended, will take effect immediately.

“Sarawak is aggressively promoting tourism to the Chinese market. The state is also collaborating with Brunei to bring in tourists from China but is faced with a problem that our northern entry points are not gazetted to issue visa-on-arrival,” he said.

Abang Johari, who is also the Sarawak Tourism, Arts and Culture Minister, said it would not be an issue for the state capital because the Kuching International Airport entry point is allowed to issue visa-on-arrival to tourists from China and India.

He said the state government introduced the special pass because Sarawak would be receiving 10 chartered flights from Hubei province, China, between next month and February next year.

“If the response is encouraging, the promotion will be continued as scheduled charters,” he added.

Abang Johari said the pass would only be issued for organised tours and not for independent travellers, so that movement of these tourists could be monitored.

The special entry pass would also allow Chinese tourists in Brunei to visit Sarawak, he said, adding that Brunei was an important tourism hub for the state due to connecting flights between Bandar Seri Begawan and Shanghai.

Continue reading at: Sarawak to woo more tourists

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Adventures of JPE: Borneo 2016 - Brunei Darussalam

I had a great experience in the islands of Kota Kinabalu. I enjoyed the city as well, with its laid-back atmosphere and natural ambiance despite some big establishments. It was my time then to leave the place and head to my next destination, which just lies near Sabah; I was bound for the oil-rich country of Brunei.

Situated at the northwestern coast of Borneo, this tiny nation is divided into two sections by the Malaysian state of Sarawak. Its capital is Bandar Seri Begawan, which spans an area of 100 square kilometres. Travel between Kota Kinabalu and Brunei is easy, with a lot of options either by land, water, or air.

Just like Singapore, the city can be explored in a short period of time and the sights here mainly includes mosques, parks, and shopping areas. On my one (and a half) day trip in Bandar, I saw most of its notable landmarks.

Kota Kinabalu to Brunei:

I woke up on my third day in Borneo at the same hostel in Kota Kinabalu. I got up at five in the morning, took a shower, packed up and head to the city park where the long-distance buses were lined up.

At seven I bought my ticket to Brunei and wait for the bus to leave the city in an hour. It was a long journey of nine hours until I arrived in the waterfront of Bandar Seri Begawan at 5 o’clock in the afternoon. I alighted from the bus and walked a short distance to Jubilee Hotel and there I checked in. I got the keys in Room 513.

After I unload my backpack, I took a short rest before going out to change money. I asked the hotel receptionist about the location of the nearest money changer and he handed me a photocopied map of the vicinity where I would find them. I stumbled upon a shopping mall, which turned out to be the famous Yayasan Complex and there I found what I was looking for.

After receiving my Brunei Dollars I walked around the mall and found a familiar face. Guess what? It’s the happy and smiling Jollibee, a fastfood chain loved by Filipinos back home. I ordered chicken strips and it really tastes like the local fried chicken.

After dining, I headed to the magnificent Sultan Omar Ali Saiffudien Mosque, the famous icon of Brunei. Somewhere on its parking area I found the perfect location to take its photo, and after taking too many shots, I went inside and looked around. I really appreciated its beauty and the ambiance of solemnity was present.

There were not so many tourists inside, and I could count them with my fingers. As the dusk approached, I went back to the same spot  where I took pictures and captured a better image of the mosque. Then their prayers began, as I could hear the song through its speakers.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Adventures of JPE: Borneo 2016 - Brunei Darussalam

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Ikimasho!: My base in Brunei - Badi’ah Hotel, Bandar Seri Begawan

The sights and sounds of the city within walking distance – or water taxi.

I first visited Borneo seven years ago, spending three weeks in the Malaysian state of Sabah with my ex from Northern Ireland.

On that particular trip I always remember toying with the idea of going to Brunei, but for whatever reason it just never happened.

Perhaps it was because to get to Borneo we had to fly from Belfast to London to Kuala Lumpur to Kota Kinabalu – the thought of any more travel most likely put us off.

This time around, however, I had no excuse. Already based in Kota Kinabalu, my flight to Brunei’s capital Bandar Seri Begawan, took just 30 minutes – with the return ticket only costing $60 / £50.

As a side note here I have to say that Royal Brueni Airlines is perhaps the best low-cost carrier I have ever flown with.

The plane and staff were immaculate – and despite it being such a short flight, passengers were offered newspapers and cold juice. I was also told I could sit wherever I wanted after take-off.

It just goes to show that you can indeed run an airline with great service while still keeping the costs low. Ryanair in Europe in particular could learn a few things here.

Arrival in Bandar Seri Begawan

I got chatting to the guy in the row next to me while on the plane. He was from Nagoya in Japan, on his was to Brunei for just one night to meet a friend.

Once we landed we both came out into the arrivals hall only to find out we were both staying in the same hotel, the Badi’ah.

A driver was waiting to take us to the hotel – always a major bonus when you are arriving somewhere new, allowing you to avoid the logistical worries of getting yourself into town.

I still always find it funny when someone holds up my name on a card at the airport, it’s a good feeling!

On our short ride back to the hotel our super friendly driver, Atoi, pointed out many landmarks along the way.

One thing I immediately noticed was how calm it was compared to Kota Kinabalu.

The streets of Bandar Seri Begawan are wide, clean and in great condition.

It’s evident that Brunei as a country is financially better off than its neighbours.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Ikimasho!: My base in Brunei - Badi’ah Hotel, Bandar Seri Begawan

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DimitriosFan: A stopover in the Sultanate of Brunei

Since that time I first remember myself being introduced to the world’s geography and history, my curiosity was always keenly animated by the prospect of visiting that tiny sovereign state, situated on the north coast of Borneo, called Brunei.

It was something about the aged stories of the powerful Bruneian empire reigning across Borneo and the South Sea, narrated by the great adventurers of the discovery age.

Something about the fables of its aforetime almighty sultans, their excessive opulence and their ostentatious palaces, which had made me regard that little piece of land through an exotic and romanticized scope.

Being finally in Borneo, after the years, the time to give my curiosity’s fancies satisfaction had come.

To get there I took a public bus from Kota Kinabalu which covered the separating distance in 8-9 hours.

A great deal of this time was consumed by the boarder controls.

First crossing from the Malaysian state of Sabah to the one of Sarawak, then from Sarawak to the eastern Bruneian district of Temburong, back to Sarawak, and, finally, again into Brunei, which whole thing amounted to seven boarder crossings and two wasted pages in my passport, all in one single day.

We arrived in Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei’s capital, some time about late afternoon. By that time, already, nothing was moving.

The streets were deserted, the shops hermetically shut and the air bereft of any sound traveling through it, as if in the outer space.

The whole image I faced gave me the impression of a ghost-city… a desolate, utterly depopulated city, recently ravaged of some pernicious pestilence or something.

That, deadness, would also be and the principal characteristic of this city, as I was to further observe during my brief staying.

A city of about 50.000 inhabitants, I would compare its vividness to a – Mediterranean, let’s say – village of 100-200 people during the early mornings, and to the farthermost dunes of Sahara during the nighttime.

The aforesaid unliveliness of this city, would definitely render one’s time there as dull and uninteresting as watching a movie in an unplugged screen, if intent on spending there a length of time exceeding two or three days.

As, though, in my case, the length of my sojourn did not last more than two complete rotations of the earth, I found this characteristic of the city ideally cooperative to my ramble-around-in-peace mood.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: DimitriosFan: A stopover in the Sultanate of Brunei

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7 places to visit in the ‘Abode of Peace’

Brunei Darussalam, with its “strict” Islamic laws and high cost of living, is an unlikely travel destination, even for tourists from neighboring Southeast Asian nations. The country, if not totally unheard of by others, is only arguably famous for 2 things – its oil and its Sultan, who was once the richest man in the world before the advent of tech billionaires.

During my travels in Indonesia and Malaysia in 2012, I’ve made many Bruneian friends who intrigued me with tales of their country. This, aside from the fact that we shared the same humor and interests, made me want to go to Brunei. So I made a promise to visit them when I had the time and money.

In April 2015, I was finally able to fulfil my promise when I went to Brunei (and Kota Kinabalu) with my college friends for the Holy Week. When I told my Bruneian friends that I’ll visit them when I booked our flights in September 2014, they were very excited. I knew we were going to have a good time.

We arrived in Brunei International Airport via Royal Brunei Airlines from Manila on April 2. The flight took less than 2 hours and it was quite an experience flying in a Muslim-owned airline. I’d recommend RBA for any traveller for its comfortability and service.

‘Logistical concerns’

Public transportation is either difficult or expensive to access in Brunei. There are no busses or trains from the airport to the city center and cabs are expensive. Make sure you arrange an airport transfer from your hotel, as we did. You’d pay a much cheaper price compared to taking a taxi.

Aside from public transportation, it’s also difficult to find cheap accommodation in Brunei since there are very few choices for travellers. So it’s a good thing we booked our hotel a month before our arrival through Agoda. We paid a relatively cheaper price for 2 rooms and 3 nights compared to the usual 4-star and 5-star accommodations available in the country.

The welcome I had from in Brunei is one of the warmest I’ve ever experienced. Since it was difficult to take public transportation, my Bruneian friends drove us around the places of interest. They showed us the cheap but excellent food places to eat in and even invited us for high tea in one of their homes. It was Bruneian hospitality at its finest!

That being said, here are the 7 places that I suggest for travellers visiting Brunei.

1) Masjid Jame ‘Asr Hassanil Bolkiah

As the name suggests, this mosque was built to celebrate the current sultan’s 25th year in power in 1992. Its 29 golden domes are symbolic of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah’s place as the 29th ruler of his dynasty.

Located in one of the suburbs near the city center, the magnificent Masjid Jame, as the locals call it, is one of the most beautiful ones in Southeast Asia and the largest one in the country. It is intricately decorated with picturesque gardens and quaint fountains.

Inside the mosque are huge decorated prayer halls for men and women. Every pillar and stairway shows the devotion of Bruneians to Islam.

Tourists can actually go here for free as long as they wear the proper attire. Women are required to wear black robes before being allowed to roam inside the mosque. People can visit any day except Fridays when Bruneian men have their afternoon prayers in Masjid Jame.

2) Masjid Sultan Omar ‘Ali Saiffudien

Considered as the major landmark and tourist spot in Brunei, this mosque tops the beauty of Masjid Jame. It was finished in 1958 by the father of the current sultan. Since then, no buildings were allowed to be built higher than this masjid – about 52 meters – so it naturally dominates Bandar Seri Begawan’s skyline.

It’s a great example of modern Islamic architecture with marble minarets and golden domes. Beside the mosque is an artificial lagoon and barge, which was added in 1967 to commemorate the 1,400th anniversary of the coming down of the Quran.

The interior of the mosque, adorned with imported items from across the world, is actively used as a place of worship for Bruneians. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the prayer hall but tourists can go around the vicinity of the mosque for free.

We visited the mosque at sunset and the view was breathtaking.

3) Royal Regalia Building

As if the mosques they built are not yet enough testaments to the wealth of the Brunei royals, they’ve also built a museum to house the treasures they own.

The Royal Regalia Building is home to the royal regalia – the royal chariots, crowns, and jewelry, among others – of Brunei’s monarchs. Since this was built to celebrate the current sultan’s silver jubilee in 1992, all the gifts from foreign presidents and kings are also displayed here.

Among the sultan’s collections were golden swords from Middle Eastern countries and small replicas of famous landmarks from across Southeast Asia. Even former president Corazon Aquino’s gift to the sultan was displayed, proof of the longstanding good relations between the Philippines and Brunei.

The museum is located in the center of Bandar Seri Begawan. Tourists can enter for free but are only allowed to take photos in the main gallery.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: 7 places to visit in the ‘Abode of Peace’

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Exploring Micro Brunei

We had a short stop in this micro-nation, taking in mosques, a billion dollar country club and a stilted village! I am writing this blog as if it was up to Stephi, she’d simply say don’t bother with Brunei!

After seeing the amazing Orang-utans in Sepilok, we returned to Kota Kinabalu. We caught two ferries out of Malaysia (via the tax-free island of Labuan where we stocked up on duty-free chocolate) and into another Singapore-like country; Brunei Darussalam. Brunei isn’t known for its tourism, but as we were so close, we (but mostly I) wanted to pop in and see what it had to offer.

Brunei and the UK share a special relationship, formed from when the Sultanate was a under the protection of the British (but remaining an independent country) from 1906 to 198, with the UK still coming to Brunei’s defence if invaded now.

Due to its naval strength, at its height the Sultan of Brunei controlled most of the island of Borneo, as well as some of the present day Philippines.

However with the emergence of Singapore as a key trading port and the increase in land attacks from Bornean tribes and Filipinos, Brunei was weakening and had to give away land to those who came to its military aid.

It ceded the Western state of Sarawak to James Brooke, a British explorer, and the Eastern state of Sabah to the East India Trading Company, a British funded outfit that brought Asian riches back to the homeland.

Later both Sarawak and Sabah joined with mainland Malaya to become present day Malaysia, leaving a very small Brunei.

Stephi arranged us a homestay via Airbnb with a young Bruneian man named Aziz.

Located around 10km outside the capital of Bandar Seri Begawan, we had a spacious room, complete with TV, wi-fi and air-con, which was a real necessity considering the 33c heat!

Brunei is a very rich country due to its oil and gas reserves; leading to very cheap petrol (just 15p a litre) and nearly everyone owning a car.

When combined with very low tourism, it removes the need for public transport or even swathes of taxis (there are less than 50 in the whole country and you can’t book them in advance).

Thankfully Aziz and his friend Azrin were happy to take us places during our brief stay.

On our first morning, Azrin dropped us off in Bandar, home to most of the country’s tourist attractions.

Brunei is a deeply Islamic country, much more so than Malaysia or even Indonesia, so its greatest mosques were a must-see.

The Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque was built for the country’s 28th Sultan (father of current Sultan).

With the bright sunshine, its huge golden dome and pristine white walls made it an impressive sight.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Exploring Micro Brunei

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Rain in the Borneo Jungle

Picture this, if you will. It is a sultry afternoon. Your boatman, with a practiced hand, guides the motorized canoe upstream over the heavy brown water of the Temburong river, navigating a series of rapids.

You squint in the harsh sunlight at the dense green vegetation stretching into the sky. A white bird lazily flaps its wings.

You climb up a hill, sweat pouring off every inch of you, even though you are shaded by the canopy of branches hundreds of feet above.

You listen to the music of the cicadas. You climb up a series of metal ladders to the very top of the canopy, and look out on to an ocean of deep green in every direction.

On your way down, the rain starts, small droplets at first, and then a deluge. You walk over the smooth pebbles in the bed of a stream to a little waterfall.

The rain drums on the trees, drowning out the sound of the falls, and of you singing to yourself as you sit on a rock, lost in those drums.

You sit there for what could have been a long time – you are not sure. Time has paused.

The green is now, impossibly, greener. The clouds kiss the tree-tops, now wreathed in mist. You head back, through rushing rapids and stinging rain.

Sounds like magic, doesn’t it? You can experience this yourself if you are willing to pay the price ( both literal and figurative).

This was the first day of our all-too-short trip to Brunei. We had flown into Bandar Seri Bagawan (the capital of Brunei) the night before.

One can stay in BSB, taking in the Sultan’s majestic glory at the Royal Regalia Museum, but the sounds of the jungle called to us, and we headed to the Sumbiling Eco Village in the Ulu Temburong national forest at the top of the morning.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Rain in the Borneo Jungle

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BRUNEI - Bandar Seri Bagawan (BSB)

Brunei, (pop 410,000) a small sultanate, has the largest oil reserves in south east Asia. This tranquil nation is the realization of a particular vision: a strict, socially controlled religious state where happiness is found in pious worship and mass consumption.

It has the largest water village in the world dating back over 1000 years. Kampung Ayer is home to an estimated 20,000 people and consists of 28 contiguous villages on stilts in the Sungai Brunei.

The Brunei Times reports, that to bring more remote areas into the fold, the Information Department's Nationhood and Community Section have introduced a programme to strengthen the relationship between people and Government.

It involves a face to face approach to raise awareness and produce a civic community that loves their religion, nation and Sultan in line with the aspirations of the Government and Brunei Darussalem. This will give rise to a more prosperous and harmonious community which is vital to maintain unity.

There is also a call for the need for more religious education training trainers to ensure all children, including those with special needs, are able to understand and master reading of the Al-Quoran and perform the obligatory Fardhu 'Ain such as praying five times a day, ablution and fasting etc.

Unlike most towns we have seen in Sabah the centre of Bandar Seri Bagawan (BSB) is spotless and well appointed. Street kerb stones are painted black and white and roads are made from a dark grey coloured large aggregate. Drivers are very courteous and will stop for pedestrians. There is very little police presence but we are told that the population is under constant surveillance from CCTV and secret police.

The Sultan living in a huge palace with 1788 rooms and 251 bathrooms is well revered and respected. The population is mainly Muslim and alcohol is banned.

A sunny morning- as usual. Roti for breakfast. We see colourful umbrellas and head for a local market. Fascinating - lots of local fruit and veg, local fish - some alive, ladies making rattan baskets (although some are Chinese imports).

Sadly two baby owls and 4 squirrels in cages for sale as pets. ... And very fresh chicken on sale... Just choose you chicken; tie it's legs together with parcel tape; wrap it in newspaper and string and make a handle; carry it home; kill it; pluck it .....fresh chicken for dinner! Quite horrible for me with pet chickens at home all with their own personalities.

It is Friday and we head towards the mosque in time to see the local gents arriving for prayer in their beautifully laundered gowns. The town virtually closes for 3 to 4 hours.

We cross the river to Kampung Ayer, the water village, a maze of board walks connecting wooden houses on stilts. It is a zone of contrasts - dilapidated shacks, well appointed houses, flower lined boardwalks some with street lamps and a mass of floating rubbish.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: BRUNEI - Bandar Seri Bagawan (BSB)

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Amazing virgin rainforest in Brunei

We return from our exciting jungle adventure to Kota Kinabalu in time to meet Ruth who has flown in from Singapore. We spend the next day in KK and have a celebratory lunch for my birthday and a goodbye lunch for Carole who is heading back to Tasmania.

Ruth and I are quick to start the next adventure. We decide to travel to Kuching in Sarawak taking in Brunei travelling on local buses, on boats up and down rivers and on ferries across bays of the South China Sea. A distance of about 1000 miles. Borneo is huge - the third largest island after Australia and Greenland, and this way of travelling help us to appreciate the scale of the island and get a feel for the landscapes, the peoples and the cultures.

We are heading to Ulu Temburong National Park in Brunei to see some of the only remaining virgin rainforest in Borneo. The Park is reached only by river and is only accessed by local longboats. Having the largest oil reserves in SE Asia Brunei is wealthy and does not need to rape its rainforests for oil palm plantations.

Brunei is proud of its forest heritage. The forestry department, established in 1933, is dedicated to effectively managing the Sultanate's forests towards "attaining excellence in tropical forests" and ensuring that Brunei has a permanent managed forest estate covering at least 55% of the total land area. On World Forestry Day, 21 March, special prayers were said by the nation to express hope that Brunei's green forest will continue to be pristine and protected from natural disasters and threats of illegal logging.

We try to book to stay in Sumbiling Eco village just down river from the park. Borneo Guide travel company require prepayment but after spending all evening prior to departure trying to pay both our credit and debit cards are refused under their pay on line scheme. They then demand cash in advance - even though we promise faithfully to pay when we reach their office in Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital.

There are only a few banks in Lawas just before the border and we spend a whole hour of the bus break trying but all 3 banks refuse to give enough cash. We cross borders and we are met in Bandar, a small village, by Ummi the guide at the Eco village. Her boss still demands prepayment but after another hour or so of trying (wifi-ing from her mobile to my iPad) Ruth's credit card is accepted. I am afraid our comments on TripAdviser will be very negative. (Even more annoying is that Nationwide credit card security stepped in and stopped my card as they considered all the failed attempts to be fraudulent!)

We stay in a wooden house on stilts to help keep the room cool on the banks of the Lambang River. Chicken and local green ferns from the forest for dinner. We wake at 5.15 to hear the dawn chorus and see the sunrise. Fish jump and skim the surface. Two hornbills fly over and the swiftlets fly low over the water to catch insects.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Amazing virgin rainforest in Brunei

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Facing my Fears in Borneo Rainforests, Brunei

At the start of 2014 I made a promise to myself to overcome my fear of creepy crawlies. While in the back of my mind I hoped this resolution would pass, when it came bundled last minute with a once in a lifetime opportunity it was impossible to say no to.

This last minute opportunity came from Microsoft Lumia with their #makeithappen campaign who promised to fulfill my unmet resolution by sending me deep into the rainforests of Borneo which, when it comes to creepy crawlies, few places are quite as terrifying.

So the challenge begins in Brunei as I touch down in the capital of Bandar Seri Begawan. I have one night to prepare myself before I am dragged kicking and screaming to my potential doom…

Far, Far Away

I was surprisingly calm on the first morning. I wake to a beautiful sunrise on the Brunei coast, I settle my stomach with my ‘last supper’ of fish and chips and I then travel in minivans, speedboats and longboats to reach my destination in the Borneo rainforests.

The journey takes roughly four hours following winding roads and riverways through mangroves and dense jungle. At the end I find my base at Ulu Ulu Resort, which translates from Malay as “far, far away”.

This is exactly where I am, now surrounded by so many creepy crawlies that the thought of it would normally bring me to tears. We are located in headhunter territory, home to the infamous Borneo Iban Tribes, who fortunately have abandoned their gruesome traditions in favour of more amiable work here at the resort preparing food, manning boats and being warm and welcoming.

A nice bunch. Anyway, having my head chopped off was the least of my worries now as I can no longer escape the constant siren of creepy crawlies which surround me.

Scared of the Dark…

At the resort I manage to control my fears by staying in well-lit areas and near to the comfort of my room. It isn’t until I am forced through rainforests in pitch black darkness that my nightmares become reality. The biggest fear for me is not knowing what surrounds me and even the slightest brush of a falling leaf clenches me up, ready to run home…. but obviously I can’t.

So this was on an early morning trek which starts at 5am and follows seemingly endless steps up into the rainforest canopy. This in itself is grueling but there is at least a handrail to help pull myself along. I ask the guide “Am I okay to use the handrail on the way up?”. His reply, “It’s best not to. Sometimes there are spiders and snakes on them”… “You’re joking right?” He shines his torch across the wooden rails to find a venomous huntsman spider on the post.

While every inch of my being was saying RUN!!! I continue to brave on, and after an uphill clamber of almost an hour I find myself at the bottom rungs of metal scaffolding with more ladders up. At this time the sun was now rising and my fears of the rainforest fall behind with the new challenge ahead. “Has anyone failed to go up before?” “Last month a girl got to here, then started crying”.

The height of the canopy is in itself terrifying, and the scaffolding to reach it doesn’t look the safest. But the higher I go, the further I am from creepy crawlies so I push on. When I reach the top, the pride and relief I feel is only outdone by the magnificence of the view. I now realize just why I pushed myself so far in conquering this fear. The views over the canopy are like nothing I could imagine.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Facing my Fears in Borneo Rainforests, Brunei

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Back to Brunei: A return to the nation at the top of Borneo, where the scenery is glorious - and the Sultan will have you round for tea

The sovereign state of Brunei, perched on the north coast of Borneo, is described as the 'forgotten jewel of South East Asia'.

It certainly was when I visited 30-odd years ago and was dropped by helicopter on to an unexplored ridge.

Back then, at the age of 20, I was almost overcome by the primeval beauty of it all - particularly the lilting gibbon calls at dawn and range after range of majestic trees.

Anyway, it was about time I went back to see how the little sultanate had fared - after all, the bulk of Borneo (the rest comprises Kalimantan, the Indonesian portion of the island, and the two Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak) had, in the ensuing years, been widely abused, if not clear-felled.

I was bracing myself. The country's vast oil reserves have led to it becoming one of the richest per capita on the planet, in sixth place. Britain comes in at only 22nd.

Sure enough, things had changed.

Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital, was no longer a backwater but a sleek, clean place of breathtaking mosques and balmy avenues. It says something about 21st Century Brunei that my guide, Tom, suggested I might like to experience - after a leisurely dusk river trip - the 'Harley-Davidson bike evening tour'.

On our river trip, a boat whisked us into tranquil waterways, abode of salt-water crocodiles, flying foxes and monitor lizards. The sun dipped serenely over the mangroves while proboscis monkeys munched on leaves, kingfishers dipped, and egrets returned to their roosts.

Then it was back to my gloriously immodest accommodation, the mighty Empire Hotel and Country Club. This featured a luxurious manmade beach - next to a luxurious natural beach. It was hard to imagine going anywhere more lavish - though we managed it at the Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, whose gate railings are capped with 18-carat gold, sapphires and rubies.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Back to Brunei: A return to the nation at the top of Borneo, where the scenery is glorious - and the Sultan will have you round for tea

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Trees in Borneo among world's most productive in recycling carbon

BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN, Brunei - Researchers are studying the ability of forests in the Sultanate to uptake carbon, with fresh data indicating that trees in Borneo are amongst the world's most productive in recycling carbon.

Dr Lan Qie from Leeds University who delivered a talk at the Faculty of Science at Universiti Brunei Darussalam yesterday, said that tropical forests were by far the most dominant in terms of biomass - a measure of organic matter - in comparison to ecosystems around the globe.

A study examining the differences in wood production above ground level, published in the Journal of Ecology earlier this May indentified that trees are taller per diameter in Southeast Asia compared with South America, allowing greater uptake of carbon.

The study which examined data from 26 hectares of forest and 12,000 trees monitored for more than 20 years calculated the amount of biomass gained in the woody parts of a tree, which can be estimated from repeated measures of tree diameter and estimates of wood density and tree height.

"From data being collected on the tropics in Africa and South America, the data suggests that the most mature forests are absorbing an increasing amount of carbon as they are still growing," she said.

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Trees in Borneo among world's most productive in recycling carbon

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First Road Trip in Borneo (Brunei and Miri)

Borneo may not be the first choice for most travelers. However a road trip with not much planning can be quite exciting, too. Without exceptionally high expectation, we took our first road trip in Borneo.

Before our AK flight, we enjoyed the complimentary lounge service at Changi T1. Courtesy of Krisflyer Amex and SATS. There are lots of food and lots of magazines to kill our time.

Touched down in Miri on a weekday after a 2-hour flight. Got our rented car from the workshop and there began our journey to find kolok Mee, dry curly noodles with little oil and some minced meat.

A simple yet delicious noodle dish that Singaporean entrepreneur tried hard to penetrate the foodies' stomach but hardly succeeded. The best is still to be found only in the original place, Sarawak!

We drove around Miri city to familiarize ourselves with the road signs, road condition and drivers behavior etc. Generally they are courteous and not in a hurry. At night, dinner is settled in Bintang Plaza adjacent to Meritz Hotel. This stay-and-shop concept is quite common here. I got my hubby a small gift and he was thrilled.

Day 2 (Miri - BSB)

Buffet breakfast fueled us up and our 150km drive to Bandar Seri Begawan began. We reached the Sarawak-Brunei connecting bridge at Sungai Tujoh and paid a whopping RM10 toll. At Rasau, the toll is only B$3.

Sarawak ICQ is not far from the toll and we cleared Malaysia check point quite smoothly. But after that we were stuck inside a "ruin" and don't know where to go.

A few cars came from the opposite direction shed lights on our way forward. That ruin is the old checkpoint, which is no longer operational.

That explained the extremely rundown state. We drove through a police post and then got our first ever Brunei stamp on our passport.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: First Road Trip in Borneo (Brunei and Miri)

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Clouded Leopard caught in Brunei's capital

BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN: A Bornean clouded leopard slipped into human habitat and remained on a tree for nearly 12 hours before local authorities safely captured the “cat” in the capital yesterday, Borneo Bulletin reported.

Curious onlookers gathered at the site to catch a glimpse of the endangered animal as photos of the cat resting on the tree went viral on social media networks.

The animal was first spotted around 6.30am.

It was learnt that the animal was found roaming around a facility by security guards on duty yesterday morning who at first thought it was just a stray cat. However, after realising the distinctive black and dark dusky-grey skin pattern and long bushy tail, the guards took action by calling the authorities.

Some 20 Police Rangers armed with tranquilisers and rescue equipment from the Reserve Unit of the Royal Brunei Police Force, with the help of a local wildlife rescue team set up nets to capture the “big cat”.

Just before sundown, the rescue teams managed to get a clear shot of the animal that was brought down with a tranquiliser dart.

However, it was clear that the “big cat” would not go down without a fight as it jumped from tree-to-tree before falling to the ground and getting entangled in the nets.

Rescue personnel seized the opportunity and caught the animal by its neck with a noose stick before safely locking the animal in a cage. The animal was kept for observation before it was released yesterday evening into its natural habitat. No injuries were reported.

Head of Wildlife Division, Ministry of Industry and Primary Resources, Hj Ajamain Hj Sawal told the Bulletin that the clouded leopard was spotted around 6.30am in an urban area of the Brunei-Muara District, and the Wildlife Division helped to catch the endangered species using a net with cooperation from the police.

The wildlife chief said clouded leopards have been spotted roaming urban areas in the past, and there was an incident where a clouded leopard was hit by a car and died.

He said just like other animals such as monkeys, clouded leopards are encroaching into the urban area looking for food as their habitat is disturbed.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Clouded Leopard caught in Brunei's capital

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Amazing Encounters in Ulu Temburong National Park, Brunei

Ulu Temburong sounds like a faraway place owing to its name of being in the depths of the jungle. And indeed, it is as obscure as a hidden treasure tucked away to be found & marvelled at. Nestled in the midst, is Ulu Ulu Resort, by the banks of Temburong River, a terrain of pebbly rocks smoothen by the rapids.

The journey begins in the heart of Bandar Seri Begawan, where we boarded the Flying Coffin (fast ferry speedboat) to weave through a Nipah grove along the muddy banks.

This is also a place where big crocodiles sunbathe out in the open. The 45 minutes ride led us to a harbour in Temburong where we took another 40 minutes bus ride to a small jetty to embark on another 15-minute ride upriver. This might cause you to grip the side bars along the longish, narrow motorised boat as it tilts & turns.

Each boat seats 5 persons, with our plastic bag-wrapped belongings, cruising became the adventure of averting splashes & collision with overhanging branches that sometimes, rests a Kingfisher.

Surprises at every turn, sightings of perched Oriental Darters, Swifts & the ever elusive Crested Wood Partridge, caused a stir amongst the participants. A flock of 6 partridges flew across the river while our boat was cruising pass, sending all who saw them into squeals of delight. Sightings are rare & to see an entire brood is even rarer. It is no wonder why birders are going deeper into the forests to document birds.

Half expecting the legumes to turn into a beanstalk inviting an ogre to descend, the perspective of size is evident in just the roots of this tree. I can’t even be Jack to climb pass the root, let alone cutting down the beanstalk. Not that I was about to cut anything but fantasical things come to mind when you have a vivid imagination.

Landing at the banks of Ulu Ulu Resort, I felt like I had developed sea-legs & swayed as I disembarked. The gigantic trees (Legumes) structured the banks bowled me over with the towering stature. Every growth has its place in this pristine ecosystem. Birds & butterflies abuzz, each going about its own way.

Ice cold pandan-infused lemongrass tea with condiment tray of curry puffs & appam welcomed us at the reception. Just as we attended the briefing, a pair of Whiskered Treeswifts began to mate  outside the room on bare tree, sending the birders into a frenzy.

The race hasn’t resumed yet as breaks were an imminent part of the game. How can we contain our excitement when we are prominently situated at the heart of Bruneissic Park??

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Amazing Encounters in Ulu Temburong National Park, Brunei

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Response growing to BIMP-EAGA Borneo flights

BALIKPAPAN: MASwings began its service to Balikpapan in East Kalimantan on Feb. 1 - its fourth BIMP-EAGA destination after Bandar Seri Begawan, Pontianak and Tarakan.

"Today we created history on Borneo. Exactly on Feb 1, 2012 MASwings expanded into a bigger regional area of BIMP-EAGA with the first flight from KK and Kuching to BSB.

"With this fourth route, MASwings is ready to welcome Visit Malaysia Year 2014 which was announced by Tourism Minister Datuk Seri Ng Yen Yen last month," said MASwings Chief Executive Officer, Datuk Capt. Mohd Nawawi Ahmad.

"Being the only national carrier that fully supports the BIMP-EAGA goals to increase transportation within the region, MASwings is proud to collaborate with local tourism bodies and agencies to further promote tourism in Malaysia and Sabah and Sarawak in particular" added Nawawi at a press conference in Balikpapan.

He said MASwings, a wholly owned subsidiary of Malaysia Airlines, embarked on this expansion solely to meet the objectives of BIMP-EAGA.

"There are 16 million people in this sub region and eight million people in the nine main cities. Our flight to Balikpapan is the fourth destination of that nine cities that we are targetting."

Nawawi said for the past year that they have been operating in BIMP-EAGA, the passenger load has been very encouraging.

"Initially some destinations were slow to pick up but later especially Pontianak and Tarakan has been very overwhelming. When we started operations into Tarakan, initially we operated three times a week but after two months we increased to daily flights.

From Tawau to Tarakan and from Kuching to Pontianak the load factor has been good.

"For the past one year, MASwings had an average of 50pc load factor serving Bandar Seri Begawan, Pontianak and Tarakan. "With the additional flights flying into Balikpapan, we are looking at increasing the load factor to an average of 70pc with 3,968 seats being offered on a weekly basis.

"We thank the people of Kalimantan for responding to our flights into Tarakan and Pontianak." With Indonesia and Malaysia being neighbours, Nawawi hoped this "air bridge" connectivity they can create even closer relations between the people of both countries.

"Today is a new chapter for MASwings. But we are not stopping here.

We are also looking at expanding into the other parts of Kalimantan i.e. Banjarmasin and into towns and cities in the Makassar area such as Ujung Pandang and Manado as part of phase two of MASwings expansion into BIMP-EAGA.

Continue reading at: Response growing to BIMP-EAGA Borneo flights

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Brunei Regatta a splashing success

HIS Royal Highness the Crown Prince and Senior Minister at the Prime Minister’s Office presented prizes in the 10 categories of the morning session of the Brunei Regatta 2013, held at the Brunei River in Bandar Seri Begawan yesterday.

The Ministry of Industry and Primary Resources emerged in first place for the 20-Rowers Fibre Glass Boat Race Between Ministries category, led by the Minister of Industry and Primary Resources, Pehin Orang Kaya Seri Utama Dato Seri Setia Awang Haji Yahya bin Begawan Mudim Dato Paduka Haji Bakar, while second place went to the Ministry of Defence and third place to the Ministry of Development.

Following the first category was the Five-Laps 40 HP and Below Speed Boat Race category in which first place was awarded to Hong Kok Leong from Tutong, followed by Mohd Amirul Hj Mohd Hassan from Brunei-Muara and Hj Mohd Norul Amin Hj Mohd Yusof from Brunei-Muara in second and third places respectively.

In the 12-Local Rowers Fibre Glass Boat Race category, the Brunei-Muara District team came in first place, while the Ministry of Development team came in second, and the Royal Brunei Police Force Sports Council in third.

Kamis bin Besar won first place in the Eight-Laps 60 HP Speed Boat Race category while Kassim bin Jaafar and Haji Md Khairi bin Haji Marfuji came in second and third places respectively.

In the 12-Rowers Fibre Glass Boat Race Between Ministries, the Ministry of Defence came in first place, followed by the Prime Minister’s Office in second place, and the Ministry of Development in third place.

In the 25-Local Rowers Traditional Boat Race category, first place went to Gamta Brunei-Muara, while second and third places went to the Kampong Sungai Bunga team and the Royal Brunei Armed Forces Sports Council respectively.

Competing brothers from Kuching, Sarawak, Mohd Yanto bin Haji Kadri and Mohd Affendy bin Haji Kadri – both utilising F1 Speedboats – came in both first and second places respectively for the 15-Lap MU Carburettor, while third place was claimed by Maarof bin Mahari of Kuala Belait.

For the Jet-Ski Four Stroke (Open) category, Awg Muhammad Arif bin Ahmad Tarmizi from Malaysia emerged as the first place winner, with Haji Idzam Norhaidi bin Hj Mashud and Gabriel Chong of Brunei coming in at second and third places respectively.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Brunei Regatta a splashing success
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