Kellyrstravels: Gomantang caves and Sandakan

It was an early morning again this morning, waking up at 5:30 to get ready for a 6am boat cruise on the Kinabatangan river.

We hopped in the boat and pulled out into a river covered in fog.

You could barely see the other bank! We were on the water for around an hour and a half, but didn't see very much because of the fog.

We saw quite a few long-tailed macaques, an egret, some little bright kingfishers, a huge hornbill, and a silver leaf monkey.

Then we made our way back to the lodge for breakfast.

Similarly to lunch and dinner, the food was quite westernised, with the buffet including sausages, baked beans, and toast, and luckily there was an egg stand with someone making eggs.

There was also a woman making special local roti bread with a curry sauce, so I tried some of that, which was nice.

After breakfast we packed up our bags and met back at the dock to start the trip to Sandakan .

We took the boat back to Bilit and there we were met by a much fancier coach-style bus.

Transport upgrade! We all hopped on, and there was room for most of us to have a double seat to ourselves, which was great.

On the way to Sandakan, we were stopping by at the Gomantang caves, which Jeffry explained was also a good spot to search for wildlife as there's a boardwalk through the trees to get to the caves.

On the road that led to the caves complex, we spotted some big hornbills flying by.

Once we'd paid our entrance and headed down the steps into the jungle on the boardwalk, we immediately spotted a big millipede-type bug and some lizards on the handrails - you really need to watch where you put your hands here!

We then came across a big group of red leaf monkeys (bright red fluffy monkeys with cute black faces), and stood and watched them for a while.

After continuing along the boardwalk, we came out into a little village area set against jungle-covered cliffs with a massive cave opening.

Jeffry explained that the village area was for the people who had permits to collect the swift's nests from inside the cave.

These nests are edible and highly prized in Chinese culture.

Just as we were about to go into the cave, Lauren spotted some movement and we saw an orangutan come climbing down the trees on the cliff next to the cave!

It was a big female orangutan and after a flurry of photo-taking we stood and watched her for ages.

There were also some red leaf monkeys further up the cliff, but they didn't get much attention!

The female orangutan found a spot to hide in some bamboo not far away from us, and it was then that I spotted a baby further up in the trees.

The baby climbed down to a bamboo stalk right near us, so we stood and watched both of them for quite a while.

Eventually it started raining though, and they hid from the rain, so we made our way into the Gomantang cave.

It was very stinky from all the bat and bird guano, and there were cockroaches everywhere, but the size was very impressive.

The noise was also quite considerable from the swifts and the bats squeaking.

There was a huge hole in the back end of the cave from the cliffs above, and there was greenery hanging over the edges, which was beautiful.

Jeffry explained how the locals used bamboo and rope ladders to climb their way up the walls of the cave to get the used swift nests to sell.

We walked through the cave and then back out the front, where the orangutans appeared to be gone.

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Kellyrstravels: Gomantang caves and Sandakan

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Take a Walk on the Wild Side: A few days away in Sandakan, Sabah (Malaysian Borneo)

The Philippines certainly isn’t lacking in natural beauty or wildlife, but it doesn’t really have any truly iconic creatures (on land at least) worth making a special trip for.

However, just a skip and a jump from Manila (an ideal visa run) is a place that offers a chance to meet some of the world’s most recognisable animals in their natural environment.

To get to Sandakan couldn’t be simpler: Air Asia runs daily flights (at pleasantly convenient times) between Manila and Kota Kinabalu, and then Malaysia Airlines offers 40-minute connections, flying low over the jungle in 12-seater twin props.

The biggest draw of Sandakan, which bills itself as “The Nature City”, is the Sepilok Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre. Despite international outcry, landowners continue to burn jungle to make way for palm oil production across Borneo, often leaving grievously injured Orang-utans in their wake. In the best case scenario, this is where they end up.

Unlike many animal attractions across Asia, this place is a genuine conservation effort — you won’t find any sedated animals to pose for selfies with, for example. In fact, signs around the viewing areas make it clear that if you don’t see any Orang-utans during your visit, then the place is doing its job — the creatures have been rehabilitated and are out in the jungle fending for themselves.

In the highly unlikely event that not a single one turns up for the daily 10am and 3pm feeding times, then the day isn’t entirely wasted — when you follow the raised walkway through the thick towering jungle you’ll certainly see many other creatures.

Besides this, just next door is the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre, which again is doing important work to protect a threatened species. Also nearby is the Rainforest Discovery Centre, where more than 250 species of bird have been sighted.

A short drive away from these three centres is the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary. These comical primates live in a patch of jungle spared from destruction by the Yet Hing Oil Palm Plantation. Although wild, they arrive reliably for feeding times throughout the day.

Other natural attractions include the Gomantong Caves, home to the tiny swiftlets that produce the Chinese delicacy of Bird’s Nest Soup, and the Kinabatangan River, where pygmy elephants (the world’s smallest) can often be spotted foraging on the banks.

There is also a fair bit of history to explore. Just outside town is the Sandakan Memorial Park, which marks the site of a notorious Japanese POW camp where about 2,700 Allied soldiers, most of them Australian, lost their lives. It’s a pleasant, well-shaded park with a poignant and informative visitor centre.

Ironically, the site has again been subject to a Japanese invasion — this time in the form of Pokemon Go characters. When I visited the place was full of locals (all grown men) shuffling around the flowerbeds staring at their phones. (I’m told that they frequently tumble into the ornamental lily ponds as they stalk their virtual prey.)

There isn’t a huge amount of visible history inside the town itself, as the place was bombed to hell during the war. However, the charming St Michael’s and All Angels Church was left unscathed. This stone-built Anglican church was built in 1893 and wouldn’t look out of place in any English village. Over the main entrance is a fine stained-glass window donated by Australia to commemorate the 60th anniversary of VJ Day.

Continue reading at: Take a Walk on the Wild Side: A few days away in Sandakan, Sabah (Malaysian Borneo)

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Wanderlust: 7 things you must do in Borneo

Impenetrable rainforests, rare wildlife and diverse culture – Borneo is perfect for adventure and nature lovers alike. Here’s what you need to do to get under its skin

1. Swim with turtles in Sipadan

Imagine kneeling on a sandy seabed ogling a large hawksbill turtle, only an arm’s length away. That’s the kind of encounter that awaits you under the crystal clear waters off Borneo’s Sipadan Island.

And it’s not just turtles. Drift across the shallow reef plateau on the eastern tip of this tiny uninhabited island, and you’ll be surrounded by curious batfish and clouds of brilliant-yellow snappers. Snorkel out to where the reef drops away to deeper waters and you’ll meet jacks, barracuda and tuna, as well as the occasional giant Napoleon wrasse.

Sipidan truly is a snorkeller’s paradise.

2. Climb South East Asia’s highest mountain

Standing majestically at 4,095m above sea level, Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain between the Himalayas and New Guinea. It is also one of the most accessible, with well-maintained paths, and the world’s highest via ferrata.

Whichever route you choose, make sure to look up from the path as you climb. The mountain is a botanist’s Mecca. As well as insectivorous pitcher plants, there are 1,200 varieties of orchids thriving here in the cool, moist climate. It’s home to frogs are tiny as your fingernails too, but, understandably, they are harder to spot.

While it is possible to climb the mountain in one day, most climbers prefer to overnight at Laban Rata, a spacious hut at 3,272m, before setting off before dawn to reach the granite dome of the summit. Don’t forget to treat yourself to a long, revitalising soak in the Poring Hot Springs nearby.

3. Head up river

The mighty Kinabatangan River acts as a pathway into the tangled interior of Borneo. It is a land of pygmy elephants and proboscis monkeys and traditional tribespeople, straight off the pages of a Boy's Own Adventure.

Cruise the river at dawn and dusk, stay in a bamboo hut at Sukau or Abai Village and savour the great food being served. Take a night walk in the jungle with a local guide who will find things you would never have spotted on your own.

The nearby Gomantong Caves are worth a visit for the bats and swiftest and their nests – a spectacle straight out of a David Attenborough documentary.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Wanderlust: 7 things you must do in Borneo

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Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre, Sandakan, Borneo

Before I share the photos from our recent holiday I want to share the rest of the highlights from our honeymoon in Borneo and Thailand.

I hope to inspire you to travel to both these amazing countries.

The whole aim of our trip to Borneo was to see animals in the wild, particularly the orangutan’s and the probiscus monkey.

After leaving Kota Kinabalu we took a short flight to Sandakan.

As soon as we stepped off the plane we hopped onto a full day tour with “In Sabah tours”Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary, the rainforest discovery centre and Gomatong Cave.

Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary is a rehabilitation centre for orphaned and injured orangutans.

The centre covers 43 sq km and is situated adjacent to Kabali Sepilok Forest Reserve.

There are about 60 – 80 orangutans living at Sepilok, but they are free to roam the whole reserve so you are not guaranteed to see them with your entrance fee.

You watch a short video when you arrive at the facility on how they rehabilitate the animals and how you can help out and donate.

Then it is a short walk to the feeding platform where you wait and hope to see one.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre, Sandakan, Borneo

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Borneo: The oldest rain forest in the world - part one

About two months ago now I embarked on an adventure I had been anticipating since I was a young child- going to the Bornean Rain forest!

Due to my passion for animals, and one in particular- the Orang-Utan, I had always wanted to go to Borneo, home to the oldest Rain forest in the world which has many endangered species inhabited there such as the Bornean Orang-Utan, the False Gharial, the sun Bear, many species of Gibbon etc….

I decided to spend six weeks in Borneo, I travelled around with my grandfather for the first two weeks where we mostly did sight seeing and then for the next four weeks, I alone went on to volunteer at the Matang Wildlife Center in Kuching.

It was the most amazing experience of my life and I highly recommend going if you are a nature lover!

In the first two weeks my Grandfather and I went to some wonderful places; we visited the Gomantong Caves which are the largest Bat caves in Borneo, also home to the Swiftlets who’s nests are used to make Birds Nest Soup (a very profitable market as it happens)!

We also went to Sepilok Orang-Utan Sanctuary (which I later found out to be highly unethical), Borneo Reef World in Kota Kinabalu where we snorkeled and did an underwater walk with special helmets and many other wonderful things!

We then went a little way up Mount Kinabalu, a very special mountain to the locals that live in and around Kota Kinabalu.

It is known for its summit being surrounded by clouds for most of the day- the locals believe that this mountain is protected by Gods and the Clouds around the top almost make it the equivalent of Heaven.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Borneo: The oldest rain forest in the world - part one

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The Grande Tour - Borneo

After leaving Bali we made our way to Borneo, Malaysia. We stayed on the eastern side of the island in the city of Sandakan, which is just teeming with wildlife.

Sandakan, and Borneo in general, is the real deal when it comes to being the rainforest.

There were random torrential downpours of rain, and more mosquitos (and mosquito bites) than I have ever experienced in my life.

Terrifying bugs abounded around every corner and we dutifully took our malaria pills every night!

No malaria for these backpackers, thank you very much!

We are actually still taking them now, as you have to continue taking the pill 7 days after you leave a high risk area.

Our first stop of the trip was at a rainforest lodge about 2 hours out of the city, and a short boat ride across the river.

It was a giant wooden compound, and mostly reminded me of a summer camp that I threw up at and then had to have my Mom pick me up from in the middle of the night.

I was 8, it was Alaska, what can I say, I have issues with camps.

We had communal meals with other people on the tour, and we all went out the boat tours as a large group.

We would spend 2 hours in the early morning, and then again around dusk boating up and down the river looking for animals. We definitely found them!

Monkeys are just everywhere. These are Silverleaf Monkeys that are actually totally wild, but had the calmest, sweetest temperament.

We were a little freaked out to be so close to them after being around the aggressive Macaques in Bali, which will tear your eyes out if you look at them funny.

But these guys just wanted to hangout, and didn’t even mind if you gave them a little pet.

They barely even acknowledged us, even if we were half a foot away from them. It was pretty amazing. They were also great little models for the camera!

We took a day tour out to see the Gomatong Cave, which is famous for it’s terrifying eco-system.

It was featured in all it’s disgusting glory in the Planet Earth episode on Caves. If you haven’t seen it, do look it up.

We were a bit horrified to discover this was THAT cave!

If only David Attenborough was there to narrate us through this bizarre experience ….

But! First! On the hike out to the cave we got amazingly lucky and stumbled upon 3 Orangutan having lunch in the tree-tops.

It was a mother and her baby, and then a giant male that seemed to be after her.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: The Grande Tour - Borneo

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10 reasons to explore Borneo, Malaysia - Part 2

While Borneo isn’t wild with a buzzing backpacker scene or filled with travelling party animals, it is a welcome treat of getting back to nature and witnessing things that you’ve only seen in National Geographic. Borneo and its 140 million year old rainforest definitely knocks you on the head and shouts, “Wake up! This is nature at its finest!”, whilst simultaneously lulling you into a fascinated stupor.

I covered some reasons of why you should go to Borneo because of its wildlife and jungle last week, and the Orangutans are a highlight of those who can travel over to Sepilok! I’m now sharing with you my experience of the coast and mountains of Sabah. For those who love beach life and hiking in epic hills, then this should get you searching for a plane ticket over there.

This is the second half of my ‘10 Reasons to explore Borneo’ and I’m sure you’ll agree with me that A) it is the ONLY place you need to go to see a world-class sunset, and B) Borneo will make you feel very small and insignificant in the world.

6. Be breathless at the Gomantong Caves

Have you ever explored a deep crack in the earth? The Gomantong Caves are a large cave system that’ll wow you… but be sure to pinch your nose. The stench of bat poop and other animal waste is pungent, but the hidden space within the rocks is equally as breathtaking.

Simud Hitam (Black Cave) is the most accessible and it has a ceiling that’s as high as 90 metres. Swiftlets and bats live in this cave, and the bird’s nests are often collected to be eaten. I’ve never tried birds nest soup and the thought of it does make me turn a bit green around the gills, but you can watch licensed locals climb to the roof of the caves to collect abandoned nests.

If you arrive in the evening, you might see the hordes of resident bats leave the cave in a flurry for their night-time hunting, almost tag-teaming the Swiftlets returning after their day-time feedings. So with all this wildlife living side-by-side, you can only imagine the amount of poop that accumulates and attracts an entire population of bugs. It’s not for the faint-hearted, but sometimes nature is a touch messy.

The other crevice in the earth is Simud Putih (White Cave) and as it is more challenging to get to and explore, you’ll need to get that organised before you arrive. You can find the caves after an 1 ½ hours bus ride from Sandakan and they’re open from 8am to 6pm.

7. Marvel at Mount Kinabalu

Do you fancy feeling dwarfed by another feature of Borneo? Then take a walk up Mount Kinabalu! It’s a towering 4,095m that stands proud against the horizon with a constant mist covering around its peak.

My cousin who lives in Kota Kinabalu climbed this on a school trip, so I thought it might be something I could do, but the more I looked into it, the more I realised that perhaps I wouldn’t be able to trot up it as briskly as I’d hoped.

Continue reading (incl. Pics) at: 10 reasons to explore Borneo, Malaysia - Part 2

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Sir David Attenborough filmed bat colony in Borneo while hanging 250ft in the air

• Sir David Attenborough, 88, filmed bat colony while hanging 250ft in the air
• Determined to carry on working despite knee replacement and pacemaker
• Filmed the tricky shot in a cave in Borneo for new television series
• Never wants to stop working and says has had 'good fortune' in his career

Hoisted 250ft in the air on the end of a tangle of ropes, Sir David Attenborough shows you’re never too old for a tricky camera shot.

The 88-year-old naturalist has had a knee replacement and a heart pacemaker fitted but none of that was going to stop his latest assignment – filming a huge bat colony in Borneo.

Filming Sky series Conquest of the Skies, Sir David travelled to the Gomantong cave in Borneo, home to around a million bats that emerge in a huge flock each dusk to go hunting for insects.

For this spectacular sequence, shot in 3D, he was winched up on a rope pulley and spoke to a camera fixed to a flying drone known as an ‘octocopter’.

Sir David said: ‘In the cave you can feel the pressure build as bats emerge from the depths, from up to a mile away in the blackness.

'They gather in an chamber just before the entrance and the crowd grows bigger and bigger into a huge maelstrom, almost a whirlpool of bats, wanting to get out to feed on the insects but not daring to while it’s still daylight because there are bat hawks out there.

‘Eventually one makes a break for it, and then they all go out, thousands of them, finding safety in numbers because there only about five bat hawks.’

He added: ‘I have been in the Gomantong bat cave before, but this time was a highlight: I was winched on ropes 250 feet above the cave floor, and with the octocopter in front of me, did a piece to camera with a million bats flying past on their way out of the cave to hunt.’

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Sir David Attenborough filmed bat colony in Borneo while hanging 250ft in the air

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Wild Encounters: Sabah, Borneo

Avid naturalist and outstanding local guide Jame Marajan gives us an insight into the incredible wildlife the rainforests of Sabah have to offer.

Originally from the small town of Sandakan in the northeast of Sabah, Jame Marajan has guided travellers through the Bornean rainforest and along its waterways for the past 17 years. With a focus on the east, Jame has become an expert on this ecologically rich region, with regular visits to the lower Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary, Gomantong Cave, Selingaan Turtle Island and Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. The lower Kinabatangan river is an extraordinary area of 26,000 hectares that is home to the largest wildlife concentration in Southeast Asia. Jame talks to us about the land he knows so well.

What wildlife do visitors to the region typically see?

Well, more than 100 different species of mammals have actually been recorded, from the smallest Bornean pygmy squirrel to the largest Bornean pygmy elephant. There are over 200 species of birds, including all eight species of hornbills, and more than 100 species of reptiles, including snakes, soft shell turtles, estuarine crocodiles and lizards. Proboscis Monkeys are endemic to Borneo, and we have macaques and wild orangutans too. These are all species that people can actually see when they visit.

And what is your most memorable wildlife encounter?

A few years back, I was trekking with two American tourists by an oxbow lake when a Borneo pygmy elephant bull suddenly appeared about 10 metres away from us. It was shocked to see us there and the same goes for us. In fact, both parties were so shocked, we all ran a different way.

Do you have a favorite species to spot?

My favourite animal has alway been the snake, as they're such fascinating and primitive creatures. Even now, so little is known about their habitat, breeding and behaviour. But, I also like to see the clouded leopard and Bornean ground cuckoo because appearances are so rare.

What challenges have you faced guiding people through the rainforest?

Once, when I took five Canadian students trekking through the jungle, I saw a nest of stinging bees. I pointed to it and warned them to keep away, but one of them reached out and poked it, after which they all ran in different directions. I managed to gather them up after half an hour, but the student who'd poked it got stung five times and I did once. Imagine if it had happened in a denser forest. That's my worst so far [laughs].

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Wild Encounters: Sabah, Borneo

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Attenborough to film Sabah wildlife in 3D

KOTA KINABALU: Renowned British naturalist Sir David Attenborough is once again turning his attention on Sabah’s wildlife.

The documentary maker is spending about a month with a crew of 44 in Sabah’s Lost World, the Danum Valley and Gomantong Caves in the east coast to film flying creatures in three dimensional format.

The segments would be part of a documentary called Conquest of the Skies slated for release in the United Kingdom in December followed by other countries later.

“We are making a story about how insects and animals with bones have evolved to fly. There are more examples of the interesting flying creatures in Borneo than anywhere else in the world,” Attenborough said here on Wednesday.

“There are all sorts of flying reptiles such as frogs and snakes and then there is the flying lemur. This land is rich in wonders,” he said.

Attenborough said shooting a documentary in 3D format was most suitable as it would show clearly the movements of the animals.

This would be his second foray to the Gomantong caves that is home to thousands of bats.

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Attenborough to film Sabah wildlife in 3D

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Borneo - Sandakan Wildlife Search

Sandakan is situated on the East Coast of Sabah, Malaysian Borneo. On its West is the interior mountain range and on the East is the Sulu Sea. Sandakan is definitely a dream location for travelers interested in wildlife and nature. Our Sandakan Wildlife Expedition brings you closer to three of the worlds most exciting conservation programmes: Turtle Conservation on the Turtle Island Parks, Orang Utan Rehabilitation Center in Sepilok and the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary. In addition, this expedition takes you to Gomantong Caves where the largest collection of edible birds' nest is found.

Turtle Island Park

The Turtle Island Park, lying some 40Km north of Sandakan and close to the Philippines border, comprises of a group of three beautiful tropical islands - Pulau Selingan, Pulau Bakungan Kecil and Pulau Gulisan. The total park covers an area of 1,740 hectares embracing not only the three islands but also the surrounding coral reefs and the sea. Pulau Selingan and Pulau Bakungan Kecil seem to attract the Green Turtles to come and nest here while the Hawksbill Turtles prefer Pulau Gulisan. No obvious reasons can be found for these turtles' choice of nesting areas. The Green and Hawksbill Turtles come ashore to nest all year round but the best time to visit is between July to October because more turtles come to lay their eggs during this period. However, at least a few turtles do come up to nest every night of the year.

Turtles normally arrive on the islands after dusk. While waiting for the sun to set and the arrival of these turtles, there are many activities that you can explore. The tropical white sandy beaches are ideal for relaxing and tanning whilst the crystal clear water is fantastic if you fancy snorkeling or watching the beautiful sea lives and corals. The park is also a great spot for a BBQ picnic under the long hours of golden sunshine. You can also wander around the island to witness how many turtles have arrived in the island the previous few nights as these turtles leave their marks on the sand.

The Park Rangers will inform you after the first sighting of incoming turtles. You will be escorted to the nesting turtle by the rangers to watch the eggs being laid. Clutches of freshly laid eggs are then excavated and transplanted to the protected turtle hatchery, with minimum delay, to ensure that other wild predators, mainly monitor lizards, do not eat or destroy them. After a period of incubation, the eggs will hatch and the hatchlings will be released to the sea. The release of hatchlings is normally done early morning or night and are released at various locations on the islands again to avoid wild predators. When the hatchlings are released on the shore, they scatter in all directions and instinctively head for the sea. Once they enter the water, they are washed ashore by the incoming waves, but after a few attempts they swim strongly out to the sea. The hope is for these hatchlings to survive the rough sea and to one day return to the Turle Island Parks. 

Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre 

The most popular native of Borneo is the Orang Utan; one of nature's most endangered animals. Located 25Km from Sandakan is the world-famous Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre which has been around since 1964. Set in 43 square km of protected and beautiful rainforest at the edge of Kabili Sepilok Forest Reserve, the sanctuary helps once captive Orang Utans learn to fend for themselves in the wild. This sanctuary also enables you to come in close contact with these amazing animals and witness an exciting conservation programme in action. However, you are restricted to walkways and are not allowed to touch these animals in order to protect them from any diseases. The centre also provides medical care for orphaned and confiscated Orang Utans as well other wildlife such as Gibbons, Sumatran Rhinos and Elephants.

In their natural settings, Orang Utan babies stay with their mothers for a period of six years while they are taught the skills needed to survive in the wild, with climbing as the most important skill. At this centre, these babies are paired up with older Orang Utans to learn these essential skills. Meal times are the highlights to both the Orang Utans and visitors to the centre. There are two feeding times each day. This is when about 60 semi-wild Orang Utans swing from their jungle habitat on to the feeding platforms for their daily meals of milk and bananas. Once there is no food left, these animals zip back into the jungle but occasionally some will come back to pose for the last remaining visitors.

Continue reading at: Borneo - Sandakan Wildlife Search

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Rehabilitation and breeding centre for wildlife in Kinabatangan on the horizon

KINABATANGAN: Sukau assemblyman Datuk Saddi Haji Abdul Rahman disclosed yesterday that a world-class rehabilitation and breeding centre for wildlife on the verge of extinction and unique to Borneo, is currently being set up in an area covering 3,000 acres in a forest reserve.

Saddi said the centre to be located at the Situ Forest Reserve, 20km from Bukit Garam, would take a year to fully develop the programme, which is a collaboration of several bodies led by the Sabah Wildlife Department, the Asahiyama Zoo from Japan, various wildlife rehabilitation bodies and several international non-governmental organisations.

The first of its kind in Malaysia and South-East Asia, the centre will be like a breath of fresh air in wildlife conservation and at the same time, a boon to the State tourism industry.

Speaking to reporters after attending a briefing given by the Wildlife Department, Saddi said he was impressed with the proposal because the proposed centre would be close to several eco-tourism attractions which include the rainforest, the Gomantong cave, the ancient cemeteries, the proboscis monkeys, birds, the orangutan, the crocodile of the Kinabatangan River.

“These tourist attractions would certainly complement the centre and an existing forestry school,” he said.

Meanwhile, in his briefing, Wildlife Department director Dr Laurentius Ambu said pygmy elephants, orangutans, proboscis monkeys, Sumatran rhinos and Asian gaurs (seladang) living in the forest need to be saved from extinction.

Ambu said the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and the National Geographics had documented the possible extinction of the pygmy elephants in the state and this had raised concerns prompting the issue to be dealt with collectively and consistently.

The Taisei Corporation, an environmental planning and administration group in Japan, along with several private corporations, volunteer organisations, the WWF and other international environmental organisations, will bear the cost of setting up the centre.

Continue reading at: Rehabilitation and breeding centre for wildlife in Kinabatangan on the horizon

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Gomantong Caves: Vital source of edible bird's nests in Sabah

SANDAKAN: The Gomantong Caves are the largest and most important source of edible bird’s nests in Sabah.

It is an intricate cave system inside Gomantong Hill, which is the largest limestone outcrop in the Lower Kinabatangan area. Situated in a forest reserve, nearly two hours’ drive from here, the caves and the surrounding area are a protected area for wildlife, especially orangutans.

The main cave system is divided into two parts: the more accessible Simud Hitam (Black Cave), and the larger Simud Putih (White Cave) which lies above.

The cave system is home to many other animals, including massive populations of cockroaches and bats. Outside one can see crested serpent eagles, kingfishers, and Asian fairy bluebirds.

The caves have been renowned for their valuable edible swiftlet nests, which are harvested for bird’s nest soup. The most valuable of the nests, the white ones, can fetch very high prices.

Twice a year, from February to April and July to September, licensed collectors climb to the roof of the caves, using only rattan ladders, ropes, and bamboo poles, to collect the nests.

Harvesting is regulated by the Sabah Wildlife Department to ensure the swiftlets are given enough time to make new nests to lay their eggs and hatch them.

Continue reading at: Gomantong Caves: Vital source of edible bird's nests in Sabah

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Madai Cave - Exploring the hidden depths

The Madai Cave proves to have interesting treasures outside, as well as inside.

To reach the main entrance to Madai Cave, you have to walk through a dark tunnel where there is a grave of an unknown person. None of the villagers know who was buried there.

Then you pop out of the tunnel and are surprised to see a cluster of wooden houses in front of the entrance. These belong to the nest collectors, the guardians of the cave.

Madai Cave is not as well known as the nearby Gomantong Caves in Sabah, or the caves in Gunung Mulu National Park in Sarawak. However, Madai has long been an important site for the birds’ nest collectors and is slowly becoming better known to tourists who are looking for adventure.

Situated between Lahad Datu and Tawau, the hill containing Madai Cave rises steeply from the forest floor. It can be seen from far away, and you get tantalising views of it standing above the oil palm plantations. The final approach is interesting as you drive down a steep hill into the kampung.

A collection of wooden houses line both sides of the road, and the cliff acts as a scenic backdrop. You can see the gaping mouth of the cave from here. There is little activity in the village, except for women carrying buckets walking to and from the river to do the washing.

As we were on a research trip, we already had a guide arranged. We followed him along the narrow path between the houses. I was surprised to turn a corner and see a new mosque in the centre of the village. A collection of children appeared from the various houses, curious to see the Mat Salleh (Caucasian) visitors in their village.

However, none actually followed us up the staircase to the cave tunnel.

We assembled at the houses outside the main upper entrance. Washing was hanging out to dry, and there were wooden tables and benches in the central area. There is also another grave. This one supposedly belongs to Nenek Apui, who was one of the earliest inhabitants here.

There are more than 25 caves in this area, but Madai is the biggest and best known. It has a long history. The caves were first visited by scientists 60 years ago. They reported that the phosphate deposits from the bat and swiftlet guano were collected for use as fertiliser. However, a far older industry is birds’ nest collection. The local Idahan people have had the rights for collecting for many generations.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Madai Cave - Exploring the hidden depths
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Gomantong Caves - Borneo’s living cave

The stench of ammonia was unmistakable. From the thick forest, the smell assaults you from all directions. Finally you get the whole whiff as you come to a clearing marked by a cluster of stilt houses. Beyond the clearing is the largest chamber of the Gomantong Caves.

The Gomantong Caves are located in Sabah, at the northern tip of Borneo, the world’s third largest island. The caves have been described by conservationists as "the best-managed edible bird’s nest cave in the world." The caves are also said to have been in use many years ago, supplying the Emperor of China with the delicacy for centuries.

Borneo itself (divided between Brunei, Indonesia and Malaysia) is a hothouse of diverse flora and fauna. Generally, caves in tropical climates can host more living things than caves in cooler parts of the world, and the deeper you go, the more interesting the cave fauna becomes.

Two cave complexes make up Gomantong Caves and within them about 20-plus chambers. The two complexes -- Simud Hitam (Black Cave) and Simud Putih (White Cave) -- are where bird’s nests are harvested. The White Cave yields the expensive "white" bird’s nest, so named because the nests are free of the droppings and debris that characterize the "black" bird’s nest.

The Black Cave is about 30 meters wide and approximately 100 meters tall. It is the more accessible of the two cave complexes and can readily be visited from ground level. An elevated, circular wooden walkway has been built along the wall of the cave in order to let visitors observe the cave and watch the harvesting of the nests.

The curious can witness the harvesting between February and April, and again between July and September, when the eggs would have hatched and the nests abandoned. On off seasons, the show turns to the cave and its fauna.

Gomantong Cave is clearly a living cave. Guano (bat droppings) is commonly harvested and sold as fertilizer. Not so here. The guano has been left uncollected on the cave floor and now resembles a black undulating hill. This is to let the natural cycle of cave life go on uninterrupted by humans.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Gomantong Caves - Borneo’s living cave
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Gomantong Park to boost tourism

Sandakan: The Tourism, Culture and Environment Ministry is considering a proposal to turn Gomantong Cave into a tourism site as well as develop a proposed Gomantong Park to provide facilities for the visitors.

Minister Datuk Masidi Manjun, who viewed the proposal as good for long-term tourism development, said the bird's nest collection activity in the area could itself become a tourism product.

Aside from that, he said a centre for doing research on the swiftlet's nest could also be set up.

Responding to a suggestion made by Sukau Assemblyman Saddi Abdul Rahman, Masidi said a homestay programme can also be developed involving the interested villagers there as part of the effort to increase their income.

Continue reading (incl. pics) at: Gomantong Park to boost tourism

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Making birds nest harvesting at Gomantong a tourism attraction

Kota Kinabalu: The Gomantong Caves in Kinabatangan have huge potential to be developed as another new tourism product that will also provide economic opportunities to the residents nearby, said Sukau Assemblyman Saddi Abdul Rahman.

Thus, he has proposed an annual celebration of birds nest harvesting at the caves - which have been the natural habitats for the swiftlets for ages - to attract tourists, particularly foreign visitors.

Saddi said he had submitted the proposal to develop Gomantong Caves as a new tourism product to the Sandakan Municipal Council, Kinabatangan District Office and the Wildlife Department in Sandakan last year.

He said he was made to understand that a feasibility study will be carried out on the viability of the proposal.

"If this proposal is approved by the State government, it would be suitable to make the swiftlets' nests the main product of Kinabatangan in tandem with the Government's 'One District, One Product' vision.

Saddi said the Gomantong Caves are situated not far from the Kinabatangan township and that it would take about 30 minutes to drive there.

"The workers would harvest the nests four times a year in February and April. So, we should take advantage of this and develop the caves as an interesting place to visit," he said.

Continue reading at: Making birds nest harvesting at Gomantong a tourism attraction
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Gomantong, largest limestone cave draws tourist

KINABATANGAN: The largest limestone cave in Sabah, Gua Gomantong, is not only a tourism attraction but also home to thousands of swifts, a bird famously known for its edible nest.

Hence, the cave plays an important role in Sabah’s production of bird’s nest.

It’s renowned for its high commercial value and is a favourite among the Chinese due to its medicinal significance.

Spread over 3,297 hectares of area, Gua Gomantong is located in the Gomantong Forest Reserve in Kinabatangan and is under the Class VI Forest Reserve Category.

In Sabah, there are about 25 limestone caves that are home to the swifts but only two have high number of the bird’s nest, namely Gua Gomantong and Gua Madai in Lahad Datu.

Gua Gomantong is under the care of the Kinabatangan Wildlife Office which is the authority in charge of the bird’s nest under the Wildlife Conservation Enactment 1997.

Continue reading (incl. pic) at: Gomantong, largest limestone cave draws tourist

Wild time on the Sandakan floodplain

ONCE an important waterway for traders from far away China who sailed up the mighty Kinabatangan River in heavy junks that they would load with edible birds’ nests, two centuries later, Sabah’s longest river is still a hotspot.

But instead of sailing in junks from where the river flows into the Sulu Sea, travellers are now whizzing along in speed boats and vans so that they can catch a glimpse of diverse wildlife found at this eastern region of Sabah.

While the Kinabatangan floodplain is still home to the Gomantong Caves — where birds’ nests are today collected under strict monitoring by the Sabah Wildlife Department — it also shelters primates, birds, reptiles and rare mammals.

It is one of the very few places on earth that harbours 10 primate species, the most notable being the proboscis monkey which commonly lives in a large family led by a dominant male.

Male proboscis monkeys, which have large protruding noses, mingle freely with females and young off-springs in trees on the banks of the Kinabatangan and its tributaries.

The Long-tailed Macaque is another primate commonly found here and can be spotted swinging from tree to tree or playing on wire and rubber hose bridges built across the tributaries by Kinabatangan Orang Utan Conservation Project (KOCP), a local non-governmental organisation.

Continue reading (incl. pics) at: Wild time on the Sandakan floodplain

Sandakan Attractions

Sandakan was the former capital of British North Borneo from the years 1884-1946. As one of the largest towns in Sabah in the early years, traders from Europe to Africa, Arabia to China, the Indies to Java made Sandakan the hub of Sabah. After WWII the capital was transferred to Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu). This month’s feature highlights Sandakan’s many wonderful charms.

Turtle Islands Park

Head out to the Turtle Islands Park, where hawksbill and green turtles go to lay their eggs after dusk. Pulau Selingan, Pulau Bakkungan Kecil and Pulau Gulisan are the three islands that make up the park, but Selingan Island, the largest of the three, is where visitors are welcome to catch sight of the amazing event of turtles nesting. Here is where the complete facility for turtle spies is located: the park’s headquarters, a visitors’ centre and a turtle hatchery makes Selingan the perfect place for you to learn about turtles and witness a turtles conservation effort. Turtles come ashore after the sun sets, so visitors can spend the daytime snorkelling in the pristine waters surrounding the island. Although turtles lay their eggs on the three islands all year round, the occurrence is more common between July and October when the seas are calmer. Arrange your visit to Selingan Island through a tour operator or through the Parks office for this eye-opening and awe-inspiring experience!

Agnes Keith House

On top of the hill along the stretch of Jalan Istana there is a house with a story to tell. This British colonial government quarters called Newland, was once occupied by a famous American writer, Agnes Newton Keith, who wrote Land Below the Wind (1939), Three Came Home (1946) and White Man Returns (1951), written accounts of her life in Sandakan during and after the war. With the exception of the second book, Land Below the Wind and White Man Returns were written in the House on the hill where she had a view of the Sandakan Bay in the front and the Sulu Sea in the back. Destroyed during the war, the house is today restored and turned into a heritage house, providing interesting insights into life during British North Borneo. It is furnished with a reproduction of colonial furniture and antiques. A gallery on the first floor tells the story of this remarkable woman, her books and her family. The Agnes Keith house is open daily from 9.00am to 5.00pm. For further information, please contact The Agnes Keith House at 089 221140.

Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre

Established in 1964 with more than 4,500 hectares of virgin jungle, the Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre is designated area of forest reserve and sanctuary the Orang Utan (Pongo Pygmaeus). With genes that are 96.4% similar to humans’, it will be easy and fascinating to see that the adorable creatures behave in a human-like way. Get your cameras ready at feeding times (10.00am and 2.00pm) and wait with the keepers, who sit on the feeding platform with bananas and milk, and the Orang Utans should soon make an appearance. More often than not they appear, some of them unfazed and even loving the attention, while others are more wary of their human visitors. The Orang Utans here in Sepilok are rescued from logging sites, plantations and illegal hunting. When they have learnt the necessary skills for survival in the wild, they are then set free into their natural habitats in the Borneon rainforests. When you come to Sandakan, make the Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre a definite stop to meet Sabah’s wild sweethearts!

Gomantong Caves

Simud Hitam and Simud Putih are the two caves that make up the intricate cave system inside Gomantong Hill. Simud Hitam is the more accessible of the two, just minutes’ walk away from the entrance to the caves. The ceiling of Simud Hitam 90 metres above ground hold the ‘black saliva’ nests of the swiftles who live in these caves. Simud Putih is a little harder to access and requires special permission for admittance. It is here where the more valuable ‘white saliva’ nests are found, the main entrance of which is a further 90 metres above Simud Hitam. Watching the licensed and expert locals risk their lives climbing up flimsy rattan ladders, ropes and bamboo poles to collect the precious commodity is a vexing experience; nevertheless, drop by the caves for an exceptional adventure! Arrange your visit to the caves with a tour operator.

Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary

When you are in the Sandakan vicinity, make sure you head out to the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary in the Sukau area. It will be one river safari you will never forget, and have you longing to come back for more. Within the 26, 103 hectares live a great variety of flora and fauna endemic to Borneo and the area itself. A recorded 1000 plant species, 250 bird species, 90 fish species and reptilia and 50 mammal species live in this small area. Be very excited - whether on your day or night safari, you will have the chance of sighting animals like the Borneo Pygmy Elephant, Orang Utans, proboscis monkeys, silver leaf languors, macaques, civet cats, snakes, estuarine crocodiles and wild boars. Look above to spot hornbills, Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle, the Violet Cuckoo, the Blue-eared Kingfisher, and the Grey-headed Fish-Eagle to name a few. To visit the Sukau area is not just a feast for the eyes, it is a valuable experience that will open your eyes to the importance of conservation of the ecosystem that is home to precious wildlife.

Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary

In the centre of the mangrove forests of Sumawang is the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary, where you can see Borneo's indigenous proboscis monkeys. This privately-owned sanctuary located within an oil palm estate gives you the chance to observe these animals up close and personal. The remarkable males sport big dangling noses, reddish flat-top hairstyles, white tails and markings, and pot bellies. The females on the other hand, are much smaller and have up-turned noses. Check out their website at www.proboscis.cc to take a peek into the world of the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary where you will spot these and other fascinating creatures found there!

Sandakan War Memorial

Officially opened on 15th February 1999, the Sandakan War Memorial is located on the original Prisoners of War camp set up during the Second World War Japanese occupation in 1942-1945. An official Anzac Day Ceremony is held here every year in memory of the Australian, British and New Zealanders who suffered and died in this area. A pavilion dedicated to the prisoners of war who spent their last days at the camp and wall-mounted displays documenting the lives of the prisoners as well as the Sandakan Death March make this memorial a place worth visiting. The park is located at Mile 8 of Jalan Labuk Utara and is open daily from 9.00am to 5.00pm.

Other attractions

Check out the coffins buried in the limestone cliffs by the mystical Orang Sungai at Batu Tulug and explore the three caves located within the limestone formations. 14 dive sites are waiting for you surrounding the Lankayan Islands off the coast of Sandakan where undersea life like ribbon eels, whale sharks and green and hawksbill turtles wander and swim. Get away to a secluded paradise island called Pulau Libaran and walk along its beach and enjoy its stunning sunset come late evening.

After you visit the Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre, drop in to the nearby Rainforest Discovery Centre where a myriad of the most beautiful plants and flowers can be seen. Why not take in the pleasures of Sandakan town at your own pace and learn of its history and culture on the Sandakan Heritage Trail. Visit one of the oldest buildings in Sandakan, the St. Michael’s and All Angels Church where you will find the exceptional stained glass windows, donated by Australians to commemorate the 60th Anniversary of the end of World War II.

Source: Sabah Tourism Newsletter

NOTE: All Photos Copyright to Sabah Tourism