Visiting Sandakan -- Borneo's charming entrepot

Sandakan is a port town and an entrepot to the wildlife refuges of the fabled Kinabatangan River. There's no question that most visitors to Sandakan are strictly passing through and are not going to be in town too long.

We strongly suggest that if you're heading to the river, don’t be in a rush. Otherwise you'll miss out on Sandakan’s ample charms.  In short, we think Sandakan is well worth spending an extra day or two exploring.

In addition to the Memorial Park, which we covered in part 1 of this series, there are three other venues that you should definitely not miss. All are a bit off the beaten path, so you won’t be inundated with other visitors.

The first steps we would take are in the direction of The Sandakan Heritage Trail which is a comprehensive walk that covers the town's most important and culturally significant sites.

The walk begins at the 100-year old Masjid Jamik, a mosque originally built in the 1890's as a place of worship for the Indian Muslims in Sandakan. Muslims

sought refuge here during the Second World War, and the venue even acted as a hiding place for a few Europeans.

The next stop is the Pryer Memorial, a granite structure erected to honor the founder of Sandakan, William Burgess Pryer. It seems a bit incongruous that Pryor, a Brit, would have founded a town in Malaysia but at the time it was a British Colony and he had permission from the local Sultanate. By chance Pryer and his wife who were on their way to Sabah met Filipino nationalist Jose Rizal in Hong Kong. Rizal shared with Pryer the plan establish a Filipino settlement in Sabah for those dispossessed of their lands. The plan never saw fruition but Pryer did establish the town on the 21st of June 1879.

Following the Pryor monument, you will then climb the Stairs with a Hundred Steps which will lead you to a beautiful view of Sandakan town and bay. It also brings you to the famous Agnes Keith House.

Agnes Keith Museum and Tea House

Agnes Keith is not a household name but in the mid-twentieth century she was a well-respected writer in a unique time and place.  During this period, Keith, a native of Hollywood, California, captured the experience of colonial life in North Borneo. She was married to a high ranking British colonial official and lived a fairy tale life portrayed in her autobiographical book Land Below the Wind. However, her fairy tale turned into a nightmare with the outbreak of the War.

Her second and most arguably her most popular book, Three Came Home, depicts the hardships of her time as a prisoner in Japanese POW and civilian internee camps in Borneo and  Sarawak. This work was subsequently made into a film (of the same name) in 1950 with superstar Claudette Colbert. (The sensationalist poster of the film, pictured at left, would certainly not fly today for many good reasons but is an illustrative period piece).

Perched on a hill, her original home (really a mansion) was devastated during WWII. However a replica has been constructed and turned into a museum bursting with memorabilia from her storied life. Literary fans and others who want to understand a semblance of life in colonial Malaya will not be disappointed.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Visiting Sandakan -- Borneo's charming entrepot

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Agnes Keith House, Sandakan

Have you guys ever been here? I suggest you guys to do so. This house is so historical and nostalgic with English-style design and deco (so beautiful); located in Sandakan, Sabah.

Keep reading if you want to know more about Agnes Keith House.

Who is Agnes Keith?

To those who still in hazy about her; Agnes keith or Agnes Newton Keith was an American journalist best known for her three autobiographical accounts of life in North Borneo (now Sabah) before, during, and after the World War II (source: Wikipedia).

Agnes wrote a book, Land Below The Wind which chronicled her living conditions day-to-day in Sabah; the title of the book was used to refer the state of Sabah as "Sabah Negeri di Bawah Bayu" or "Sabah Land Below The Wind" (referring to Sabah’s location just below the typhoon belt).

What is so special with her house?

Agnes and her husband were seized by the Japanese and sent to some of the prison camps.

After the war, they returned to Sandakan and find their house destroyed.

So, they decided to reconstruct the house in 1946–47 on original footprint and similar style like before.

They named their two-storied wooden bungalow "Newlands" and lived there until they left Sabah in 1952.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Agnes Keith House, Sandakan

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My Experiences of Sabah

Sabah, although in the same country as Sarawak, has many subtle differences to one another, through the various cultures and way of life. I started my trip in Sandakan, which is at the heart of Sabah’s wildlife. I only used Sandakan as a stop over to get to other areas of wildlife, although Sandakan is much more than just a stopover. There is more to offer in this town richly filled with history and culture.

Check out the restaurants by the harbour, the memorial camp resurrected in remembrance for those who were present in the infamous death march, and the famous literate: Agnes Keith’s house. For my short stay, I stayed at Harbourside Backpackers, which is based in a popular square of the area with clean dorm beds, AC, free internet and free reign over a DVD collection and TV for just 28 ringgit a night.

I headed to Sepilok the next day, to visit the most famous orangutan sanctuary in the world. Visitor numbers soar even higher each year, and the head count is well into its millions. Excited tourists rush off local buses, air conditioned mini vans and speedy taxis- all in anticipation to catch a glimpse at the orange haired orangutans. And it is pretty easy to do so with Sepilok’s regimented feeding times, meaning frequent free and easy access to food for these creatures.

Standing amongst tourists from all over the world on a boardwalk in the jungle, you watch orangutans of all shapes and sizes swing and loop, jump and dive, play and eat, whilst never stopping to smile a huge cheeky grin. Seeing orangutans with hands for feet and other remarkable human characteristics, was memorizing and made me squeal with excitement. Time flies by fast and as the feeding time begins to come to a close, the most confident orangutan looked at me with his brown endearing eyes that seemed to ignite something within my soul, it was hard to say goodbye. However, human contact with these orangutans must be kept to a bare minimum- otherwise some friendly poachers will take advantage of this relationship.

Being shooed away, I moved to the baby orangutan enclosure, which was even more amusing. Baby orangutans chewed bananas up and spit them out in sheer delight and gluttony, or sent themselves somersaulting into springy patches of tarpaulin. A visit to Sepilok whilst in Borneo is a must do. Try check out one of the videos Sepilok shows highlighting the process of rehabilitation and conserving orangutans for their welfare, it is both touching and endearing.

Nearby to Sepilok is the Kinabatangan River, where rainforest meets river, a tropical oasis of sights and smells. If you haven’t caught a glimpse of any Proboscis monkeys in Sarawak, or visited the Labuk Bay Proboscis monkey sanctuary in Sabah, (a place where numerous monkeys are cared for and given a diet of pancakes- in exchange for tourists to take pictures). Or you enjoy boating and exploring wildlife through another medium, then I recommend visiting this river.

Although, make sure you book a trip from Sandakan, where boat trips are half price. Booking mine in Kota Kinabalu meant I had paid a large amount for a two day one night trip. I do recommend this time frame for seeing the wildlife as it is just pot luck, and after the boat cruise, things to become a little bit regular, as the same animals are spotted, (although not the tour guide’s fault or your fault-but the animals!) We saw an abundance of wildlife: hornbill birds, a sleepy croc, silvertail monkeys, proboscis monkeys, many lizards and a sleepy snake.

Spotting wild animals on either side of you whilst floating along a peaceful lake was a highlight- not the animals itself. I splashed out- the accommodation I stayed in: Bilit Lodge, was the reason behind the costly trip and was beautiful. Monkeys swung from chandeliers in the hallway and personal cabin esque rooms were given to us. I shared the lodge with a number of retired mature australians, which made my time there enjoyable.

Looking back, there are other ways I could have spent my money, however, the river is known for being a highlight to any naturist. After going on an afternoon boat cruise, as well as an early morning one- which seemed like an epic scene out of a fishing movie as fog began to roll off the water as we sped through clouds of mist, we planted trees which I thoroughly enjoyed- and if anyone is thinking about doing it ever- do so!

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: My Experiences of Sabah

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Turn Agnes Keith House into botanical garden

SANDAKAN: Federal Minister of Tourism and Culture Datuk Seri Mohamed Nazri Abdul Aziz has suggested that the surrounding area of the famed Agnes Keith House here be turned into a botanical garden.

He said his ministry was prepared to provide funding for the purpose, adding that such a garden would serve as another attraction for visitors to the colonial-era house.

Commending the State Museum for preserving the Agnes Keith House, Nazri said historical sites were important tourism products, especially for history buffs.

Agnes Keith stayed at the house atop a hill here with her husband for nearly 20 years until the mid 60s and wrote a book entitled “The Land Below the Wind” which chronicles her experiences during her time in Sabah.

Nazri, who was on an overnight visit to Sandakan, has directed his ministry’s office in Kota Kinabalu to come up with a report on the proposed garden for his action.

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Agnes Keith – A Hidden Treasure in the Land Below the Wind

Land below the Wind is a well known expression here in Sabah, Borneo and a often mentioned. Where does the expression come from? How come its so famous and who made it a such a well known expression?

Malaysia has many treasures and one of them we found is Agnes Keith. She was an American author and journalist who lived in Sabah, Borneo from the end of 1934 to the beginning of 1952.

We got curious and wanted to know more about this exciting woman who lived under a longer period in Borneo and made such an impact on people that she still is famous today.

How did she end up in Borneo?

Agnes Keith was born in Illinois, USA in july 1901. After meeting Henry Keith an Englishman (later known as Harry) and marrying him she followed him back to Borneo in 1934. Harry was Conservator of Forests and Director of Agriculture for the government of British North Borneo (now days known as Sabah) under the Chartered Company and was also Honorary Curator of the State Museum.

Their home in Sabah was in Sandakan on the east coast of Sabah. While Harry were away on his many trips and adventures all over Sabah Agnes started to write about her new land. She always kept a diary and could easily collect her notes.

The title of Agnes’ first book about the North Borneo (now known as Sabah), LAND BELOW THE WIND (1939), has become the unofficial motto of Sabah. The phrase was used by sailors to describe all the lands south of the typhoon belt, but Agnes Keith popularized the special connection of the phrase with Sabah, by applying it exclusively to North Borneo in her book.

She makes a vivid picture of the land she came to love. People, culture, adventures and her daily life gives us a picture of how life was here in Sabah back then.

It was followed by THREE CAME HOME (1947), which focused on hardships suffered in the Second World War, and was subsequently made into a Hollywood movie, and the third book was WHITE MAN RETURNS (1951), which tells of her life in Sandakan after the war.

Continue reading at: Agnes Keith – A Hidden Treasure in the Land Below the Wind

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Borneo: land of exotic beauty

The road, edged with lemon grass, wild ginger and tall bamboo orchids winds upwards from Kota Kimbalu, the capital of Sabah, one of the Malaysian segments of Borneo.  We pass through groves of wild bananas and acacias and see distant villages deep in the valleys below while crested serpent eagles wheel above. It is an awe inspiring scene.

“There it is, the sacred resting place of the spirits,” my guide Philip says pointing  excitedly to the mountain which now looms above us.

Mount Kinabulu

In the old days, Philip tells me, local people would not climb Mount Kinabalu and disturb the dead and when a British officer Sir Hugh Low tried to make the ascent 1851, his guides insisted on appeasing the spirits with the offerings of crystals, cockerels and eggs.  In 1994 five members of a British Army expedition were lost for a month in an area known as Low’s Gully. They were eventually rescued but the mountain is still afforded a great deal of respect by locals and climbers.

I had not come to climb the mountain however, but to visit Mount Kinabalu National Park which contains thousands of species of plants, insects and animals found nowhere else on earth and is justifiably a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On these slopes some 1200 species of orchid grow. So valuable are these plants that some years ago a Malaysian, Lim Sian was caught at Heathrow airport smuggling 130 of the most rare into Britain. We walk one of the trails through the oak and chestnut forest with laughing thrushes chortling above us and we find quantities of orchids including one of the very smallest bulbophyllum orchids, its bloom like a tiny drop of milk.

Rafflesia

Much as I love orchids, I confess to Philip that my greatest desire is to see a Rafflesia, the largest flower in the world, which I understand to be out of season. “No,” he assures me. “There is no real season, only luck.” On the way down the mountain, he stops at the Pecan Nabalu village market and after talking to a local man, tells me he thinks he’s located one.

We head off in the direction of Poring Hot Springs, sulphur baths installed by the Japanese during their occupation, now much used by weary mountaineers. At Ranau we pass the monument commemorating the 2400 Allied prisoners marched by the Japanese from Sandarkan -  six survived.

Enjoying bananas

Shortly afterwards we see a home made sign on the roadside, “Rafflesia in Bloom 3km” and turn off into the jungle.

“At first if people found these plants growing on their land, they would destroy them, thinking the government would take them, but now they make a little business of it,” Philip tells me as we meet the owner and pay her 10 ringgits ( about £2.00). She then escorts along a wooden walkway to the back of her house … and there they are! Not one but several huge, almost surreal blooms, the size of dustbin lids, growing at ground level. They are indeed  Rafflesia arnoldii  which are parasitic to a wild grape vine and take nine months to mature and then last only one week. I can’t believe my luck and can’t stop smiling as we head back down to Kota Kimbalu for a cool swim and a relaxing evening as I have to leave my comfortable bed at 4.30am for my next adventure.

This time I am heading  east, taking a short flight to Sandakan. I know of this town not only from the march of the prisoners but also from the books of Agnes Keith, an American who in the 1930s, married the Conservator of Forests for British North Borneo and wrote interestingly of colonial life in the area. Her house is now open as a museum and nearby there is even an English tea room where you can eat crumpets and play croquet.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Borneo: land of exotic beauty

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Travel back in time on the Sandakan Heritage Trail in Sabah

Sandakan in Sabah is the second largest city in the state. The beautiful Borneo city of Sandakan is well known as the gateway to Sabah eco-tourism destinations. Sandakan in Sabah is also well known for its rich historical past that you must not miss exploring when you are on a tour of Sandakan. The Sandakan Heritage Trail in Sabah will most certainly awe you with all of its historical sites that testify to Sandakan’s rich historical past.

The Sandakan Heritage Trail in Borneo is located in the old part of downtown Sandakan. The Sandakan Heritage trail in Borneo was launched in 2003. The one and a half hour walk through the Sandakan Heritage trail in Borneo will lead you to encounter some of the most attractive historical sites in Sandakan. You are rest assured that at the end of your journey through the Sandakan Heritage Trail, you will be very impressed by Sandakan’s rich historical heritage.

One of the most attractive historical sites on this heritage trail is the Masjid Jamek in Sandakan that is located at Lebuh Empat, which is the starting point of the heritage trail. This beautiful mosque is amongst the earliest buildings that were built in Sandakan and is the first mosque in this city. An Indian cloth merchant named Damsah constructed the Masjid Jamek in 1890. During World War 2, the Muslim inhabitants of Sandakan would use this mosque as a hiding place from the Japanese soldiers occupying the city. Some European expatriates even joined them here in using this mosque as a sanctuary from the brutal Japanese soldiers.

As you proceed further along this heritage trail, you will come across the William Pryer Monument. This magnificent granite structure was built to honour William Pryer who was the first British Resident of Sandakan. William Pryer was famous for introducing a taxation law in Sandakan that was aimed to curb excessive trading exploitation that happened during the early founding years of Sandakan. This monument serves as a tribute to his service as the British Resident to the city of Sandakan back in the 19th century.

Another attractive historical site you must not miss while on the heritage trail is the Agnes Keith House. This beautiful house with its beautiful green lawn and colonial style walls was home to the famous American author, Agnes Keith. She is famous for her literary works such as Land Below the Wind and The White Man Returns, which was written in this historical house. This house was built in 1946 on the ruins of the British colonial quarters that were destroyed during World War 2. This house was converted into a heritage site that displayed a snapshot of what life was like in British North Borneo during the early days of Sandakan. You can find replicas of beautiful colonial-era antiques and furniture throughout the house that adds to the historical atmosphere of this beautiful dwelling.

Continue reading at: Travel back in time on the Sandakan Heritage Trail in Sabah

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Taste of colonial Sandakan

IF you find yourself in Sandakan, Sabah, and don’t feel quite up to venturing out of town to take in the sights, there’s a spot you should go to.

Actually, it’s more of a place you shouldn’t miss. The small hill in Jalan Istana is only a 20-minute walk away from the town centre but it holds two much talked about city attractions in nature-rich Sandakan.

With sprawling lawns and colonial-style wooden architecture, the Agnes Keith House and English Teahouse are two of the most interesting stops on the Sandakan Heritage Trail. You also get a great view of Sandakan Bay at the front and the Sulu Sea at the back.

Agnes Keith House

Now operated by Sabah Museums, the Agnes Keith House has been fully restored to the original design of a double-storey colonial wooden bungalow. It opened to visitors in 2004.

American writer Agnes Keith and her family lived here from 1934 to 1952, excluding wartime when they were held prisoners of war. Keith wrote two of her seven books here, including the famous Land Below The Wind, in 1939.

The small garden and grounds are well maintained, giving the perception of an occupied home. Visitors half expect the lady of the house herself to come out and offer them a cup of tea.

Visitors have to remove their shoes to enter the house. The air-conditioned interior is a welcome respite from the hot afternoon sun.

The interior is beautiful and awe-inspiring, containing reproductions and antiques belonging to the colonial period. The dining and living rooms on the ground floor contain memorabilia, photographs, a dining table set and refrigerator among other interesting items.

There’s plenty to see, yet the place is not cluttered with items and furniture, making it easy to walk around the house. An elegant wooden staircase leads to the upper level which houses the large, but simply decorated master bedroom and study. Also on display here are family photographs and glass cases containing some of the books written by Keith and toys she made for her children.

There is also a little screening area where visitors can watch a short film about Keith and her family, pieced together from footage shot of the Keiths by a family friend.

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Taste of colonial Sandakan
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Wonders of Land Below the Wind

The exotic tropical beauty that is Sabah promises much for curious travellers, whether their interests are ecological, historical, marine or cultural. Situated in the north-east of Borneo and part of Malaysia, Sabah offers an intriguing variety of experiences, as Agnes Keith discovered 70 years ago when the land was part of the British Empire.

A Hollywood-born journalist, she went to live in Borneo with her husband, Harry Keith, who had been appointed as Conservator of Forests for the British North Borneo Company (timber was a major industry). Five years after they arrived, she published what became a famous memoir, Land Below the Wind.

The couple lived in what is now Sabah and the title of the book - which has been reprinted many times, most recently in 2000 - has entered the lexicon of the State, particularly among tour operators. It draws on an ancient description of Borneo by seafarers. The country is located just below the region's monsoon belt, escaping its more destructive climatic effects. Land Below the Wind is highly recommended pre-reading for anyone intending to take in the delights of the country.

Keith lived in a beautiful Colonial two-storey timber house. It is still there, restored to its former glory, and is a major tourist attraction. Its furnishings recall an elegant colonial era and the walls are adorned with a marvellous range of period photographs.

Keith wrote lyrically of the region's landscape and marine beauty: "Enchanted coral gardens grow under the sea. They bloom with bright perennials, miniature herbaceous borders, blazing balsam beds, bright blue salvias, and periwinkle petreas . . . The occupants of these gardens are little darting fish from art-shop windows, little fish too fragile and beautiful to be real, little fish of every hue. Watching them flash is seeing a prism turn in the sun, is looking into a spectroscope. They are enchanted and belong in these gardens; they bedizen, delight and adorn them. I move carefully, apologetically, among them."

Much has changed since Keith's adventures in what was then colonial British North Borneo. But the country's natural values haven't altered. Indeed, they have become one of the country's major tourist assets.

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Wonders of Land Below the Wind
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Agnes Keith’s books make Sandakan popular tourist destination

SANDAKAN: The famous book, “The Land Below The Wind” by Agnes Keith, has not only made Sandakan and Sabah famous and well known worldwide but has turned the district into an international tourist destination.

Other publications such as “Three Came Home” in 1947 and “White Man Returns” in 1951 written by Agnes Keith during the Japanese Occupation and World War II from 1942 to 1945 while she was staying with her husband Harry Keith who served as a forest conservator here in Sandakan, have further promoted Sandakan into a tourist-never-miss attraction bringing income and revenue here.

This was disclosed at the 109th anniversary and Agnes Keith 2010 celebrations yesterday.

“Let’s us capitalize on this privilege and work closely in our harmonious and multi-racial society to promote Sandakan as a destination gateway for foreign tourists to boost our economy and to assist the government to reduce the rate poverty in line with Prime Minister Datuk Seri Panglima Najib Tun Razak’s 1Malaysia concept,” said Sekong assemblyman Datuk Samsuddin Yahya.

He pointed out Sandakan is gifted with the Sandakan Heritage Walk, the Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre and other attractive tourist destinations.

Continue reading at: Agnes Keith’s books make Sandakan popular tourist destination

Further reading: Agnes Keith’s house: In a hall where history echoes
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Agnes Keith House has attracted over 12,000 visitors

SANDAKAN: The Agnes Keith House at Jalan Istana which is part of the Sandakan Heritage Trail has attracted 12,115 visitors last year.

“The 2009 figure recorded an increase compared to the 9,293 visitors who visited the historical site in 2008”, State Museum Director Datuk Joseph Pounis Guntavid said in his welcoming address during the opening of Agnes Keith Day 2010 yesterday.

The adoption of “Agnes Keith Day” each year and her book “Land Below The Wind” have one way or the other attributed to the rise in visitors to the former home of the American author and other museum premises throughout Sabah, Guntavid said.

Profile on visits to museum destinations in the state recorded for 2008 was 560,761 vis-à-vis 510,361 in 2009. Despite obstacles and the occurrence of conflicts around the globe from one year to another, the visitors decline rate was relatively low, Guntavid added.

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Agnes Keith House has attracted over 12,000 visitors


Further reading: Agnes Keith’s house: In a hall where history echoes
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