Fun and surf in Kudat

KOTA KINABALU: Sabah’s tip of Borneo in Kudat will be alive with music, fun activities and water sports from Nov 24 to 26 as the Music and Surf Festival takes place during these days.

The event, which will be held at Kalampunian Beach, Tanjung Simpang Mengayau, will see an array of activities including a surfing competition and concert by local artistes for the public to enjoy.

Sabah Tourism Board (STB) chairman Datuk Joniston Bangkuai said the three-day event was aimed at promoting the beautiful beaches of Kudat as a tourism destination for outdoor activities and surf culture.

“We also want to showcase the tradition and customs of the Rungus community there,” he said during a press conference on Thursday.

This festival will kickstart with a surfing competition on Nov 24, exclusively for participants while those who wish to try out this new sport in Sabah can do so the next two days.

Joniston said Kudat is named one of the best surfing destinations because of its seasonal waves varying from one to six feet, sandy beaches and clear water.

He said although surfing is a new adventure sport, especially among locals in Sabah, it is fast gaining popularity.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Fun and surf in Kudat

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Inaugural Music And Surf Fest @ The Tip Of Borneo To Be Held November

KUDAT: The Music and Surf Fest @ The Tip Of Borneo, Kudat will be held from November 25 to 26, 2017, at Tanjung Simpang Mengayau, Kudat, Sabah.

The two-day event aims to promote the beautiful beaches of Kudat as a tourism destination for outdoor activities and surf culture, as well as to showcase the tradition and customs of the Rungus community.

Kudat is famous for its white sandy beaches, pristine aquamarine waters, and the panoramic views of the sea are a magnificent sight at Tanjung Simpang Mengayau.

“After seeing the potential in promoting Kudat as one of the best destinations to visit in Sabah, we have combined the annual Sunset Music Fest and Surf Festival into one big event,” said Zachary Mobijohn, General Manager of Sri Pelancongan Sabah Sdn. Bhd.

“This is to enhance the experience of the locals and travellers by allowing them to enjoy in this event and to know what Kudat has to offer,” he said, adding that preparations including a site inspection and a trial of surfing activity has been done by Sri Pelancongan Sabah and the Sabah Surf Association at Simpang Mengayau.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Inaugural Music And Surf Fest @ The Tip Of Borneo To Be Held November

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Snap, Travel and Pop: Borneo - Traditions of the Rungus Tribe

This blog is part of a series of three that focus on the people and culture in the Kudat region of Borneo, particularly the Rungus tribe.

It is based on my limited experience and subject to my creative interpretation…

Read Part 1.

The majority of local people in the Kudat region of Malaysian Borneo descended and still identify themselves from the Rungus tribe.

The original tribe folk settled in Borneo thousands of years ago and were apparently keen head-hunters.

Since then they have developed their culture and way of life to keep up with the world, including ditching the recipes for Strogan-head-off.

What is nice to see is that they are still managing to keep their culture alive and doing some of it with entrepreneurial flare.

The traditional skill of gong making by hand is still going strong at the “Sumangkap Gong Factory” which, rather than being an actual factory, is simply a whole village.

In a show of might, they made the largest gong in South East Asia (I think the Chinese have made a bigger one…typical).

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Snap, Travel and Pop: Borneo - Traditions of the Rungus Tribe

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Snap, Travel and Pop: Borneo - The Rungus Festival

This blog is part of a series of three that focus on the people and culture in the Kudat region of Borneo, particularly the Rungus tribe.

It is based on my limited experience and subject to my creative interpretation…

We did not know what to expect from the Rungus Festival but what an awesome festival it was.

Held in our volunteering village of Tinagol over two days to celebrate traditional sports and the Rungus belief in Spirits.

The Rungus traditional religion is that of nature (although a lot are now Christian) in which they believe that spirits embody the natural world and that some people can possess spirits of animals or natural objects which give them super powers!

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Snap, Travel and Pop: Borneo - The Rungus Festival

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Kudat, latest tourism icon of Sabah

KUDAT: Getting to know the Rungus ethnic community is the perfect introduction to Sabah’s northernmost district of Kudat and its array of tourism offerings.

Their unique traditional handicrafts and cultural dances aside, they are the only indigenous group in this state who dwell in longhouses.

Kudat is also known for its fresh seafood, as well as Tanjung Simpang Mengayau – dubbed the Tip of Borneo – which affords stunning views when the sun sets over the horizon, where the South China Sea meets the Sulu Sea. Not many people, including this writer (Kurniawati Kamarudin) before her recent maiden trip to this quaint town, seem to be aware of its attractions.

Visitors to the state capital Kota Kinabalu probably give it a miss because it takes a good three hours to get to Kudat by car.

Air accessibility is limited too as Malaysia Airlines operates flights only twice a week from Kudat to Sandakan and Kota Kinabalu and that too using its 19-seater Twin Otter aircraft.

About 80,000 to 100,000 domestic and international tourists visit Kudat annually, but the local tourism authorities are confident that visitor arrivals will swell once the Sabah Pan Borneo Highway is completed.

The project includes the RM2.5 billion 130-kilometre coastal highway from Tuaran (located about 32 kilometres from Kota Kinabalu) to Kudat which, when completed in five years time, is expected to cut travelling time between Kota Kinabalu and Kudat by half to one and a half hours.

“We expect the new road to boost Kudat’s economy and tourism industry,” predicted Kudat district officer, Sapdin Ibrahim.

Speaking to reporters participating in the 2017 Sabah Media Tour from March 23 to 26, organised by the Information Department, he said preparations were already underway to build the necessary infrastructure and facilities to lure more tourists to the northern part of Sabah.

A total of 18 media representatives took part in the four-day visit to Kudat and Kota Belud, which was the first edition of the department’s 2017 Sabah Media Tour.

At the end of the trip, the main takeaway for this writer was that Kudat was indeed a hidden gem just waiting to be discovered by tourists near and far.

The district of Kudat has two sub-districts, Matunggong and the fascinating Pulau Banggi, which is the biggest island in Malaysia and has in its vicinity other islands like Pulau Balambangan and Pulau Malawi, as well as a cluster of smaller islands.

The still pristine islands and their white sandy beaches are delightful and bound to be a hit with nature and adventure lovers when tourism picks up in this part of Sabah.

Kudat’s population comprises the Bajau Ubian (mostly fishermen living in the coastal areas), Rungus, Suluk, Murut and Dusun ethnic groups, besides the Chinese and Malay communities.

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Kudat, latest tourism icon of Sabah

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A trip to the tip of Borneo

Have a spare weekend with not much to do? Take a drive to the north of Sabah to land’s end or more commonly known as the tip of Borneo. It is also known to the locals as Tanjung Simpang Mengayau and it’s about 198km from Kota Kinabalu.

Leaving Kota Kinabalu, travel north and head towards Tuaran town (34km). There are a number of roads you could use, but the best would be the coastal road that goes past the Rasa Ria resort.

Once past Tuaran, just keep heading for Kota Belud, which is the next town (49km) and look out for signs to Kudat Town. Along the way, you will pass many roadside stalls selling local fruits, barbecued sweet corn, fried tapioca and banana crisp, which can be either sweet or spicy.

There are also various snacks made from locally grown peanuts. Some are just steamed in their shells, while others are roasted, and some have a coating of garlic flavoured flour batter (a must try) and, of course, the ever-popular peanut brittle. Other stalls sell various baskets, winnowing trays and local handicraft made by the local Rungus people who inhabit the Kudat and Kota Marudu area.

The scenery on route varies as you drive through rice fields, fruit orchards and past local villages. Most the journey is on flat ground with a few low hills, but the road is in a pretty good condition, so it’s an easy drive.

From Kota Belud, it is 119km to Kudat town and should take you just about two hours. There are a number of modern longhouses on the main road to Kudat that you are welcome to visit or you could visit one of the traditional longhouses built for the tourists, closer to the Tip of Borneo.

Keep a look out for the signpost to the Tip of Borneo, it will be on your left if you are heading to Kudat from Kota Belud. Turn in and just follow the signs. Soon you will come to a T-junction with a number of signs and you will notice that they give opposing directions to the tip.

No worries, as all roads lead to Rome … or should I say the “Tip of Borneo” , so take either one as they are both scenic and will get you to your destination .

There are some beautiful deserted beaches as you get closer to the tip, and the beaches here are usually lined with casuarina trees that catch the breeze and make a sort of humming sound.

Continue reading at: A trip to the tip of Borneo

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One Rungus village fights to keep their traditions alive… one thread at a time

KUDAT — It’s a familiar scene: a group of women catching up on the latest gossip and sharing their news over coffee and snacks.

In this case, they are even wearing matching outfits; variations of a long black dress trimmed with white motifs and colourful threads.

The setting is an idyllic village in the middle of Kudat in Sabah’s northernmost district, in a traditional Rungus wooden home and the women have more in mind than just mindless chatter.

They call themselves Monungkus, the Rungus word for inheritors of heritage, and their aim is to revive and preserve their unique culture for generations to come.

Keepers of their culture

The Rungus of northern Sabah have long been known for their weaving and beadwork; their rich cultural and historical background is apparent in their handicraft.

Go to any souvenir shop in Sabah and it’s likely the most outstanding hand-stitched cloth or the dazzling colourful beads woven into a series of tribal motifs were made by the hands of an expert Rungus woman.

Exquisite hand-made costumes with intricate weaving and trimmed with chiming bells, solid hand-woven baskets called Rinago made with the lingkong fern plant, and boldly-coloured necklaces called the pinakol that drape across the body are all trademark of the Rungus’s culture which has been proudly passed on to each new generation for decades.

Despite the rapid development that has affected many traditional practices in Sabah, the Rungus have managed to retain much of their traditions and intangible heritage including their language, folk tales, songs, dances and handicraft.

But much of the handicraft is now confined to the more common ones like stringed beads and basketry – those with high commercial value.

Inahami Magupin, one of the members of the group, said that certain crafts like hand-loomed textiles are increasingly rare today.

The ladies of Monungkus in Kampung Inukiran, who are incidentally all related either by blood or marriage, aim to bring as much of the traditional handicraft and art into the mainstream... to make sure their children inherit their forefathers’ skills and culture.

“We want to make sure as much as possible is retained, and that it is passed on to our children who are beginning to lose hold of their roots. Even my generation has to learn a lot of the craft – the traditional motifs and how to do certain tougher weavings.

“Because children nowadays are losing interest in the traditional crafts, we want to start them young and get them involved. We are already teaching them the basics now, and they will also need to learn the language,” she said.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: One Rungus village fights to keep their traditions alive… one thread at a time

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Tip of Borneo - Feeling on top of the world

THE road to Kudat was bumpy. The six of us in the eight-seater van were tired after three hours of travelling on Sabah’s inland road from Kota Kinabalu.

My bottom was bruised from all the bumping. I was so relieved when we reached our destination — the very tip of Borneo, the third largest island in the world, after Greenland and New Guinea.

Its northern-most tip is the meeting point of two big seas, the South China Sea and the Sulu Sea.

My heart pounded hard as I walked the tiled road on a small shrubby hill fronting the coast.

The wind whipped past as I reached the top and touched a bronze globe that had a map telling me exactly where I was.

The spot where I planted my feet was Tanjung Simpang Mengayau, famously known as The Tip Of Borneo.

Standing next to the globe was a tall pole bearing the Malaysian flag. It fluttered in the wind, reaching for the blue sky.

I gingerly made my way to the edge of the headland, rising from the sea like a rocky loaf. Below, the waves pounded mercilessly.

The churning waters and the strong winds over the ages had left natural patterns on the slope of the cliff face.

The patterns looked like sea waves, tinted with pastel shades of light brown and off-white against the rugged greyish-black rocky headland.

The Tip of Borneo is one of the most stunning spots I have ever come across in our country.

And being there felt as awesome as being at the southernmost tip of mainland Asia at Tanjung Piai in south-west Johor.

Standing at both tips made me feel like a tiny pinhead on the world map.

But I must say that the view at Tanjung Simpang Mengayau is far more spell-binding than at marshy Tanjung Piai.

The coastline in this part of Sabah is treacherous. Ships had sunk in the area.

A lighthouse on Pulau Kalampunian, visible from the headland, is a reminder of past shipwrecks. The cape was also a battleground in the old days.

It was originally called Tanjung (cape) Sampang (junction) Mangazou (battle) in the language of the Rungus, the natives of Kudat.

Their forefathers had fought fierce battles to defend Rungus territory against invading enemies, including the Moro pirates who terrorised the Sulu Sea.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Tip of Borneo - Feeling on top of the world

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Beauty to promote Rungus culture

KOTA KINABALU: Claryssa Henry Ogodong may not have won the Sabah’s Unduk Ngadau 2016 crown, but she is a queen nonetheless in promoting the Rungus culture and traditions.

Having recently been re-appointed as the ambassadress of the Sabah Rungus Momogun Association (Samora), Claryssa, who was the first runner-up in the recent State-level Unduk Ngadau contest endeavours to raise awareness concerning the Rungus traditional wear and musical instruments.

And how does she plan to do that? For starters, she will begin with herself.

She explained that she has begun wearing the traditional Rungus attire called the ‘tapi’ and the ‘sukolop’ to formal events, including contests that she took part in.

“The ‘tapi’ is well known but not so the ‘sukolop’ as this is considered as something that a woman wears at home and too simple for formal events. It is also something the Rungus women wear to the farm to work,” she said.

She elaborated that the ‘tapi’ is fully woven by hand while the fabric used to make the ‘sukolop’ is thinner and not as elegant looking as the ‘tapi’, which probably explains why it is less recognized.

“When I decided to wear the ‘sukolop’, I received a lot of objections, but I went ahead anyway,” she said. As a result, more people are becoming aware that the Rungus women have two types of traditional costumes, both, of course, look just as beautiful.

Claryssa, a marketing graduate, said that she started to see the beauty of the cultures of her own people while studying in Sarawak.

“The mentality of the people in Sarawak is so different from ours. They have such high regard for their traditions and cultures and the women there always wear some form of traditional accessories or attire even when they go to church,” she related.

From there, she began donning accessories that were part of the tradition of her own people, she said.

“Some people are afraid of looking ancient or outdated when they don traditional accessories. I hope to change all that,” she said.

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Beauty to promote Rungus culture

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Kaamatan best platform to showcase cultural diversity of Sabah’s traditional costumes

AS a vital part of social development in Sabah, traditional costume play an important role in the state’s history and culture.

For the costume of the Kadazan, Dusun and Rungus, their basic features are black in colour, with colourful beads and embroidery, gold buttons and a silver belt.

These features have been preserved for hundreds of years until the traditional beauty queen, Unduk Ngadau was introduced in the 1960s, where the traditional costumes were starting to evolve.

Nowadays, however, most Sabahans wear modern clothes in their daily lives, not much different from their counterparts all around the world.

Traditional attires are only worn during certain festivals or ceremony, especially Kaamatan which is celebrated for the whole month of May, annually.

The highlight of Kaamatan is the crowning of Unduk Ngadau, which is held at the Kadazan Dusun Cultural Association, Hongkod Koisaan in Penanpang on May 31.

Each year, the finalists of Unduk Ngadau will be wearing traditional costumes, as it is part of the judging criteria.

Costumes like Sinuangga’ of the Kadazan from Penampang, Sinipak of Tindal Kota Belud, Siya of Kadazan Papar, Kinaling of Kimaragang Kota Belud and Sukolob of the Rungus women in Kudat, Pitas and Banggi are often worn during the pageant.

However, last year, the committee of Unduk Ngadau Kaamatan started emphasising on the representation of the traditional costumes in each district to bring out costumes that have not been projected before, to enrich the cultural heritage of Kadazan, Dusun, Murut and Rungus communities in Sabah.

Five new costumes were showcased last year, while this year more than 10 finalists wore rarely seen costumes.

Likas representative wore the Rinagang, another costume of Dusun from Kota Belud, while the finalists from the northern part of Sabah – Pitas, Kudat, Banggi and Matunggong showcased two types of their Sukolob – clearly showing how the costume has evolved.

The contestants representing Johor and Penampang wore two versions of the Sinuangga’, Kota Marudu finalist also showcased less accessorised Kinaling to introduce how their costume looks like before.

The chairlady of Unduk Ngadau Kaamatan organising committee, Joanna Datuk Kitingan said the development showed the spirit of the finalists in promoting their heritage to a higher level.

Continue reading at: Kaamatan best platform to showcase cultural diversity of Sabah’s traditional costumes

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Kudat Sunset Music Fest comes back for its tenth year this June

KOTA KINABALU: The Sunset Music Fest at the tip of Borneo is back for the tenth edition on June 4.

It will be a one-day only performance unlike in the previous years when it was held over two days, said Sabah Tourism Board (STB) Chairman Datuk Joniston Bangkuai.

“Since the show is held during the school term holiday, we hope parents will take advantage to bring their children to watch the fest,” Joniston told a press conference at STB office, yesterday.

According to him, the venue has a seating capacity of 800 people and so far some 200 tickets have been sold.

“We expect some 600 people to turn up this year based on our analysis during the previous years on average we have recorded 700 people over two days,” he said.

Aside from enjoying the fest, he said Kudat also have many tourism attractions that the concert goers can explore such as Kampung Sumangkap-Gong Factory, Kampung Gombizan-Honey Bee Farm, Rungus Longhouse, Tamu Kudat and Tinangol Beads Centre.

Sri Pelancongan Sabah Sdn Bhd general manager, Sitti Bahaya Damsal assured that there will be sufficient hotel rooms available to accommodate the visitors to Kudat during the festival.

“This year we have compromised with the district office where they agreed to hold the Kudat Fest after the fasting month.

“Before this, both the sunset music fest and Kudat Fest were simultaneously, thus causing problem for visitors to find accommodation,” she said.

The sunset music fest started as a public performance to promote the local talents and only in 2011, the sales of tickets started, she said.

In conjunction with the sunset music fest, MASwings is offering up to 70 per cent discount on flights to Kota Kinabalu (travel period between May 27 to June 12, 2016).

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Kudat Sunset Music Fest comes back for its tenth year this June

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Tip of Borneo Sunset Music Fest on June 4

Kota Kinabalu: The Sunset Music Fest at the Tip of Borneo – Tanjung Simpang Mengayau in Kudat – is all set to take centre stage once again.

Held for the tenth year, the event is considered one of Sabah's most unique given its unconventional venue, offering the audience a spectacular natural backdrop of the sun setting over the Sulu and South China seas.

The open air music concert will feature a line-up of performers presenting a broad repertoire of music and songs from various genres. The music festival will take place on June 4 (Saturday) from 5pm to 9pm.

Concert-goers are encouraged to visit other places of interest in Kudat such as the Rungus longhouse, honey bee farm and gong making village before heading to the festival.

During the event, access to the venue and its surroundings which include the pathway from the parking lot to the Globe will be open to concert ticket holders only from 3pm to 10pm.

This litter-free event is brought to the public by Sabah Tourism Board and is organised by its wholly-owned subsidiary Sri Pelancongan Sabah Sdn Bhd.

Tickets for the music festival are on sale now. Return transportation is available for ticket holders.

Transportation departs from the Sabah Tourism Board office along Gaya Street at 2pm sharp.

Continue reading at: Tip of Borneo Sunset Music Fest on June 4

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Borneo Beginnings

I find myself in Miri with an afternoon to spare and internet connection that includes a computer… sounds like the perfect time to update the blog.  :)

I’ve been in Borneo for just over two weeks and I am now back in the full swing of this backpacking thing.

I had a bit of a shakey start but my confidence was quickly boosted by some wonderful fellow travellers and it did not take long for me to fall back in to my groove.

First stop was Kota Kinabalu.  The city was fun to walk around, particularly due to the amount of markets that seemed to be sprawled all over the city. 

I am absolutely loving the Asian food and markets are great places for trying random new food!

I spent a morning visiting the Sabah museum, and learnt about headhunting as well as the colonialisation of Borneo.

Did you know that North Borneo competed in the 1956 Melbourne Olympics?

My favourite day in KK was hiring a car with James and Natalie and heading out for a mini road trip to Mt Kinabalu national park. 

Unfortunately, the mountain is still closed after the earthquake (Just an excuse to come back to this part of the world) but we still wanted to take a look. 

Navigating was certainly interesting but the drive was quite spectacular and definitely worth the effort.

After KK I decided to head up the coast to the tip of Borneo after a recommendation from a friend. 

I wanted some well deserved beach time and Howard’s Tampat Do Aman eco camp situated near Kudat was the perfect place for this.

Howard is committed to creating sustainable tourism within the local Rungus community and he has built a well respected business that certainly achieves this.

In all my travelling, I have never been to more idyllic beaches than this spot has to offer.

They were deserted and there were no high rise tourism buildings in sight. It simply was… paradise.

I met Sarah there on my first night and we spent the next three days making the most out of this beautiful location.

Sarah, thank you so much for your company, your Australian humour and your mothering.

This experience was made so much better by having you to share it with.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Borneo Beginnings

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The Tip of Borneo

After returning from Singapore, I stayed in KK for a night and picked up Jason from the airport the next day. Jason and James (Sandy’s fiance) were here to visit for the holiday. On the first night, we got dinner together alongside Marinette and her husband, since they happened to be in the city.

We ate at a bustling Chinese restaurant famous for its chicken herbal soup. I couldn’t eat much but the vegetables, but the broth was really tasty. Sandy, James, Jason, and I then roadtripped up to the northern Tip of Borneo together (or Simpang Mengayau, as the locals call it).

It took us about 3-4 hours to arrive at Tampat Do Aman, a Rungus longhouse/nature reserve/resort in Kudat. We had to call the owner several times, but we finally found the place after navigating a series of confusing turns in the dark.

The reserve/resort was founded by Howard, a British guy who had started the orangutan sanctuary at Rasa Ria, then decided to open his own nature reserve/resort and work with the local community after marrying a Rungus woman.

Upon arrival, Howard greeted us and gave us a quick tour of the compound. He was very friendly, though a little irritated because we had arrived so late. Typically guests arrive in the morning/afternoon, since it’s a small, intimate resort, not a large place you just check into. Whoops. :X

The reserve/resort was snug in the jungle and comprised a traditional Rungus longhouse (the native communal hut of the Rungus people, who are part of the indigenous Kadazandusun tribe), several private huts, compost toilets, outdoor showers which were enclosed but open to the stars and trees, a restaurant/dining area, a Rungus museum, a common space hut, rice paddies, and more.

We dropped our stuff off in the little huts we were staying in (which were super tiny with only enough room for a large mosquito-netted mattress and powerful wall fan. There wasn’t even enough room to stand up straight! But I thought it was such a cool experience).

With the chirping night air literally steps from the bed, it really felt like we were in the jungle. After a quick shower, we drove over to the northern tip about 5 minutes away. The view at night was breathtaking. The sky was bright with hundreds of twinkling stars, and there was a wonderful, cool sea breeze.

Borneo literally ends in a rocky, cliff-like tip, with the rocks smoothed over into interesting wavy, layered formations and lots of holes where shallow pools of fish and crabs had collected. We navigated our way around the holes and climbed down as far as we could in the dark.

Continue reading at: The Tip of Borneo

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Being on the edge of Borneo

Never mind the usual suspects of beaches near Kota Kinabalu or the diving sites off Sabah. It’s about time to try a relatively unspoilt area instead!

Robert Frost once wrote, “Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one less travelled by, and that has made all the difference.” He could very well have written about Tanjung Simpang Mengayau, a mere dot on the map of Kudat district in Malaysia. Relatively unknown due to its remote location, Tanjung Simpang Mengayau doesn’t get many visitors, and for now, this outpost on Borneo Island remains a paradise.

This promontory in an isolated part of Sabah northeast of Kota Kinabalu, is reachable after three hours’ drive, the last part of which is over unpaved dirt roads snaking through a small traditional Borneo village. A proper road to these parts, in fact, was only built as recently as in the 1960s, prior to which access was made possible only by navigating a boat along the coast.

But those who don’t care for a little discomfort – though it must be said, the views along the way are spectacular – will be rewarded, at journey’s end, with a landscape so magnificent that you will believe in the existence of heaven on earth.

The crescent-shaped Kalampunian Beach here is carpeted in pure white sands on which gentle waves lap to the shore. This sweeping coastline, fringed by casuarinas trees and said to be one of the most inspiring vistas in Sabah, leads up to the rocky headland called Tanjung Simpang Mengayau, the northern-most tip of Borneo.

Now, imagine standing on this cliff edge and looking out to where the South China and Sulu seas meet in a great clash of waves. Dark and wet sandstone boulders stretch out into the sea like beached humpback whales in a spray of ocean mist. The winds blow in forceful, frightening gusts, wafting a fine vapour of sand into the air. Visitors stand in awe with tousled up hair and billowing skirts. It feels like you are in a remote frontier, facing wild and unknown possibilities – it’s exhilarating. Perhaps this was what Ferdinand Magellan, fabled to have stopped here during his circumnavigation of the globe, felt those many years ago.

It hadn’t always been such a solitary place, though. The name, Tanjung Simpang Mengayau itself is derived from the Rungus words sampang mangazo referring to the great battles once fought here in the 18th and 19th centuries by the locals. According to legend, the coast was a favourite landing point for looting pirates, and Rungus warriors bravely fought them off in bloody battles to protect their land. Tanjung Simpang Mengayau then became the perfect lookout point for incoming pirate attacks.

Though it is uncertain how long the Rungus have been occupying the area, they are considered to be the most traditional tribe in Sabah due to their isolation from the bigger towns for so many years. While many have adapted to modern living rather well, the older generations still clutch to their unique culture and traditions.

Many of the female elders continue to wear traditional brass coils on their arms and drape colourful beads around their necks. Their basketry, weaving and beading works are said to be legendary, and while modern ways have overtaken their more traditional lifestyle, it is still possible to visit a Rungus village and experience a night’s stay in their longhouse at Kampung Bavanggazo.

Besides the homestay in the Rungus longhouse, there are only a handful of places that can accommodate tourists in Tanjung Simpang Mengayau and Kudat, reflecting the district’s relatively new exposure to tourism (See “Accommodations” below).

However, there are still a number of cultural experiences here that warrants a tourist to put up at least a night in the area, such as seeing gong artisans at work in Kampung Sumangkap and the small apiculture industry at Kampung Gombizau. The people of Gombizau, familiar with the local botanical properties, have also commercialized a type of cure-all called ubat seribu or potion of a thousand uses made of wild plants, roots and herbs. Reputed to alleviate various health problems such as high blood pressure and diabetes, it is a worthy souvenir to bring home.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Being on the edge of Borneo

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Magic Borneo Beads - Using art as a medium to instill pride and sense of identity of Sabah’s natives

Eleanor Goroh is very passionate about  things connected with indigenous culture and arts. A full-time craftswoman for Magic Borneo Beads (a homegrown dealer of beaded ornaments ) and an artist by profession, this 31-year-old Dusun-Lotud woman believes in the power of arts in reaching out to the rural community.

Tapping into her own roots, she believes that beadworks are a vital part of the Rungus and Lotud indigenous identity.

It all started with a project-based contract under the Indigenous People Network of Malaysia (JOAS), which is a non-governmental organization aimed at representing the Malaysian indigenous communities in striving for indigenous rights and advocacy. The three-year project gave Eleanor an in-depth exposure to the lives of the indigenous people in the rural areas of Malaysia.

While she does not consider herself as a social activist, Eleanor realized that there is a way to spark native enthusiasm for their own culture through arts. Today, when she isn't at her studio assembling her beadworks, Eleanor would be conducting a beading workshop somewhere.

She hopes that by making villagers aware of the cultural significance of the beads, she could  instill pride and a sense of identity among them.

"Many people think that beaded ornaments are just for adornment, not knowing that each pattern and colour tells its own story. In the olden days, beads are even used as currency," said Eleanor, adding that there is so much to learn about the traditional Borneo beads.

Apart from designing beaded knick-knacks to be sold individually, Eleanor also creates special art pieces to be auctioned off for charity, thus giving her a deeper sense of purpose and satisfaction in her work.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Magic Borneo Beads - Using art as a medium to instill pride and sense of identity of Sabah’s natives

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Maranjak Home-stay Lodge offers visitors authentic Rungus experience

For those who wonder what it is like to live in a Rungus longhouse, the Maranjak Longhouse Lodge in Kudat is the place for the experience.

Built in 2005 by Maranjak Malarag on a piece of land that he had inherited at Kampung Bavanggazo in Matunggong - approximately 40 kilometers away from Kudat town, the Maranjak Longhouse Lodge is built of bamboo, a traditional building material of the Rungus in Kudat.

Maranjak used his own savings to build the 21 twin-room longhouse.This  home-stay longhouse is operated by Maranjak’s family with help from the village community.

To give visitors an authentic experience of Rungus life, the Maranjak Longhouse allows their guests to take part in daily kampung activities such as fishing using the bubu (a traditional fish trap made of bamboo), jungle trekking and cycling around the village.

The home-stay also serves traditional Rungus food at dinner and arranges demonstrations of Rungus cooking as well.

In the evening, after dinner, visitors are entertained to traditional Rungus musical and cultural performances by the villagers in the lounge area.

Clad in traditional Rungus costumes, they would play music using the turali (traditional nose flute) and mongurunding (two-stringed lute) and dance the mongigol sumundai, mangatip-atip and the manaradan dances.

During the day before nightfall, the women of the village would come to the longhouse to display and sell their ware of handmade beads and other handicrafts on the longhouse corridor. 

Visitors can also see demonstrations of how various Rungus handicrafts are made - from their famous bead-necklaces and other knick-knacks to their intricately woven tapestry called kain pudang.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Maranjak Home-stay Lodge offers visitors authentic Rungus experience

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Sabah State Level Harvest Festival celebrations launched

KOTA BELUD: Heavy rain did not deter hundreds of people from thronging the town field here to witness the launch of the State Level Kaamatan (Harvest) Festival yesterday.

Describing the rain as a “blessing”, Chief Minister Datuk Seri Musa Aman said the fact that there was a huge turnout showed that the people loved their culture.

Kaamatan was an opportunity for Sabah’s ethnic communities such as the Kadazandusun and Rungus to showcase their unique culture during the festivities being held in various districts and villages throughout the month of May, he said when launching the celebrations.

“This is an opportunity for different communities to come together to celebrate our diversity. In fact, cultural events such as Kaamatan is possible due to Sabah’s peace, security and stability that had been the Barisan Nasional’s struggle all the while.

Musa said Sabahans appreciated the ruling coalition’s efforts and this was reflected in their support for BN candidates in the state.

“I have travelled to many places around Sabah and the response to our candidates has been overwhelming, and the same is true here,” he said, adding that he believed the Kota Belud people would not betray the ruling coalition.

Also present at the launch was Deputy Chief Minister Tan Sri Joseph Pairin Kitingan, who said Kaamatan was not only a time for festivities among the ethnic communities but also to be thankful for whatever they had.

Continue reading (Incl. Pics) at: Sabah State Level Harvest Festival celebrations launched

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Kudat: Music at sunset in Rungus territory

Kudat is best known as the Tip Of Borneo but there are many other attractions there

I HAVE added another feather in my cap — I have stood on the Tip Of Borneo, famously known as Simpang Mengayau in Kudat, Sabah, where the South China Sea  meets Sulu Sea in the east.

What a feeling to watch the waves breaking on the rocky outcrop and to catch the sun setting as well. It provokes feelings both calm and peaceful. The roar of the sea is rousing and soothing all at once.

Arriving early at the site, I climb a short distance to the look-out point which houses a bronze globe marking this place as the Tip Of Borneo.

The globe bears this interesting snippet of information. To the Rungus, the ethnic group of Kudat, Simpang Mengayau is called Tanjung Sampang Mangazou — tanjung means tip, sampang is junction and mangazou, battle. Rungus folklore has it that their forefathers fought fiercely to defend Rungus territory from invading armies.

Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan’s fleet landed at this area while circumnavigating the globe. They stopped here for 42 days to repair their ships before continuing their voyage of discovery around the world.

To get to the Tip Of Borneo requires some manoeuvring on the rugged outcrop. I find it a bit daunting. You need some sure-footedness to walk along the path leading to the promontory. Some of the gaps are almost 30cm and on top of that, the surface is slippery. A mis-step can mean landing in the sea!

I can only look on enviously as the nimble-footed  proudly pose for shots as proof of their success.

BEE FARMING

Since it’s a three-hour drive from Kota Kinabalu and not exactly on the smoothest of roads, a stop at the bee farm in Kampung Gombizau is a welcome break. This is carried under the auspices of “one district one industry” programme to boost the livelihood of the people.

This recommended tourist attraction is a chance to see bee farming by Rungus women. We are shown how the bees are kept in their hives. To calm the bees so that they will not attack us as the frames are taken out to show us the different types of bees, they are sprayed with smoke. It takes about five minutes for the bees to recover. We learn that bees are attracted by bright colours, so those in colourful clothing decide to keep well away. White is the best colour as it keeps them calm, which is why beekeeping suits are white.

Wild honey is less sweet than farmed honey and beeswax tastes like chewing gum! Naturally, the latter is good for making candles.

HIT THE GONG

The most fascinating side trip for me is a stop at the gong making village of Kg Sumangkap. This village has a history of making the native gongs for centuries.

One very busy and chatty gong maker at work is Roslina Jomoun. The 32-year-old says while her family is traditionally involved in the business, she is the only one of six siblings who still carries on the trade.

“I have been making gongs for 17 years to help supplement the family income,” she says. Her husband is a civil servant.

“I look after our four kids. So whenever I get orders or when I am in the mood, I will work on the gongs,” she adds.

The gongs come in sets of seven to nine, ranging from small to big ones. Made from zinc alloy and brass, they are in demand for weddings and other ceremonies.

“It’s time-consuming as it is handmade. I take up to a day just to make the bubud (the top cap of the gong),” she says.

Some of the tools she uses are salvaged from trucks and modified for the purpose.

Rohana Makutt is also busy as she has received orders for the gongs from as far as Kuala Lumpur.

“Kudat district is famous for gongs,” she says with pride, adding that they also supply gongs to Sarawak and make them to specific customers’ needs.

The gongs have to be tuned properly as different tribes such as the Rungus and Bajaus require them with a different pitch. Apparently, there are only two surviving gong makers capable of tuning all the different gong sets.

A good brass set can cost up to RM10,000 while a single gong may go for RM250 each. The favourite design is dragon motifs and black is the common colour.

“We have people buying gongs for home decoration,” she says, showing us souvenir items such as gong key chains and miniature gongs.

Continue reading (Incl. Pic) at: Kudat: Music at sunset in Rungus territory

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Tourism and fisheries set to change Pitas’ landscape

The Pitas district in Sabah is set to witness the transformation of its economic landscape and commercial activities through the integrated development of the tourism and fisheries sector.

The transformation is set to open more employment opportunities for the locals.

Pitas’ strategic location, lying in between Teluk Marudu and the open waters of Kudat, known for its marine resources and pristine nature, can be optimised for tourism activities.

Pitas’ local council member Rudy Awah noted that Pitas’ resources should be exploited in an integrated manner by the relevant agencies for developing the district.

The move to develop both sectors is important for improving the socio-economic status of the locals, who survive on subsistence farming and fishing.

“The beautiful beaches, when complemented by good infrastructure, can help woo tourists to the district and open up economic opportunities for the locals,” he said to Bernama after the 2012 Pitas Local Councilors oath-taking ceremony in Labuan recently.

“The same with the fisheries sector, many efforts can be made to develop the sector, including turning the district into a deep sea fishing hub along with marine resources-based downstream activities,” he added.

Rudy noted that many of the local and foreign tourists see Kudat as their destination and therefore, leisure activities in nearby Tanjung Simpang Mengayau in the Pitas district should be exploited.

“If the appropriate facilities and necessities are established, they will not only provide comfort for the visitors, but will make the place more interesting,” he said.

Rudy also mentioned the improving road networking system, especially the roads connecting Pitas to nearby districts.

“Previously, Pitas was known to be among the backwater districts, which depended on marine resources and agriculture, with the locals migrating to bigger towns to improve their livelihood. But not anymore.”

“Today, Pitas, located to the north of Sabah, near Kudat, with a population of almost 40,000 people, can be proud of the infrastructure development there,” he said.

The main ethnic groups in the district are made up of the Rungus and Sungai (including Tambanuo) people. Pitas was initially known as Tupak that literally means “crossing” in the local language. Tupak refers to the ancient homeland of the Momogun Tombonuvo and Momogun Rungus ethnic groups.

With an established township, complete with primary and secondary schools and downstream agriculture and fisheries activities, Pitas could compete with the other districts, when promoted strategically.

Rudy recalled that Pitas was once categorised among the poorest districts in Malaysia but is now fast developing like many other districts in the state.

Meanwhile, Pitas state assemblyman Datuk Bolkiah Haji Ismail noted that Pitas has been endowed with numerous natural resources that are yet to be exploited.

Bolkiah, who is also Sabah’s Assistant Minister for Tourism, Culture and Environment, pointed out that the traditional activities and items of the locals could be utilised for tourism.

One of the items unique to the locals and which can be used to lure tourists is the Bagang, a traditional platform built on the sea to catch anchovies and it is widely used in Teluk Marudu in Pitas.

“We can take visitors to have a closer look at how the locals fish with Bagang,” he said.

Apart from this, Teluk Marudu is a safe fishing haven as the water is sheltered and calm.

Continue reading at: Tourism and fisheries set to change Pitas’ landscape

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